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Old 11-05-2009, 07:23 PM   #51
OpenSights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevins_garage
Nothing can stop a man with a plan.

Vary true, but they'd make a heck of a lot a noise!
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:34 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soogyshoes
Just as effective to drill 3/4 " holes and drive rebar into the floor and motar. This would allow the wall to be removed , with some effort, but allow easier repair should any one have the desire to open the space back up.

It would!I like the drilling idea.
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:43 PM   #53
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[url="[url="http://www.adamsproducts.com/design/drawings/concretemu/greenline.html"]http://www.adamsproducts.com/design/drawings/concretemu/greenline.html[/URL"]http://www.adamsproducts.com/design/drawings/concretemu/greenline.html[/URL

Quote:
Originally Posted by OpenSights
It would!I like the drilling idea.


We use epoxy at work for rebar in drilled holes. You could use open bottom bond beam block and run rebar vertically and horizontally. Click on the link and scroll down to 8x8x16 open bottom bond beam. You just take a hammer and pop the sections out in the middle of the block and then a horizontal rod fits also. You would just have to make your own corners out of regular jamb block.
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Last edited by pitdog02 : 11-05-2009 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 11-05-2009, 09:46 PM   #54
kevins_garage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpenSights
Vary true, but they'd make a heck of a lot a noise!

I meant you, MacGyver. You are the man with the plan!

I would love to see any pics you'd be willing to post of the door and the room.
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Old 11-05-2009, 10:17 PM   #55
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16 gauge metal studs 12" on center with #4 rebar 12" on center horizontally. Use 5/8" drywall and you are all set. The usual crook cannot get through a 12" square and does not carry a grinder or metal cutting tools. Works for me.
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