Sharpening Broadheads

[Dave Edwards]

We all shoot a few broadheads into the dirt now and again. Short of buying new blades any time that this happens, what do folks use to put that razor edge back on their blades?

Given the fact that each broadhead has multiple blades, what is the quickest, most efficient method of re-sharpening the razor blades? I'm curious as to what everyone else does.

[art]

I remove the blades from the head, then discard any that have big nicks in it, or are bent or cracked. The rest are rehoned on a fine stone and tested for sharpness on my arm. The fixed blade ones I sharpen right on the shaft.
You can tell season is close when my arm starts getting bald.

[Autumnlovr]

You can tell season is closed when my arm starts getting bald.

:lolup:

[Dave Edwards]

art:

Do you use a guide for your blades to get the correct angle, or do you sharpen them by eye?

[Jerry]

Hunting arrow blades are honed at the factory for the optimum cutting surface.

I have been hunting for over thirty years and cannot hone a blade to the correct perfection. I have tried and failed :(

When I worked for Kmart in the early seventys a rep from Bear was at the grand opening of that store and he told us for the most humane dispatch of an animal the blades HAD to be perfect and he had a test to check them out.

What you are looking for is the blades to cut blood vessels not just poke a hole in the animal (he said poking an animal with a untipped arrow might kill it but how mant times are you gonna shoot it?).

The test is to take a piece of surgical tube and hold it not real tight but just slightly streched then take your blade and with a properly sharpened blade the tube would cut almost immediately upon touching the tube...if the tube just rolls then the blade is not sharp enough!

Being the bugger I am I have tried just about everything I can think of to get an edge back on an arrow blade but just cant get it quite right.

And I am very particular about wanting a good clean swift kill....besides...I dont like having to track a deer a mile through the woods and THEN having to haul it back! :protest:

Its just how I am I guess.... :)

[art]

I sharpen them by eye. Not hard after some practice.

[Rolex Dr.]

having access to 2 of the states largest machine shops

(dad worked for DCX uncle worked for OLDS)

we made clamping jigs to hole replaceable blades and use a Lansky sharping kit (with the angle slots)

i do not remember the exact angle

with 6-8 different grits

i actually can get blades to have better edges then factory(but trust me i have ruined many learning)

sounds far fetched but look under a 30X microscope

I know not everyone has a scope but if you look you can see the blades are not smooth like a scapel

many blades come sharp but apple seed shaped
thats good but not sharp enough

Jerry is spot on about the tube test I have seen/ heard of that before and if a arrow is not as sharp as possible it wont bled it will cut jagged and will allow wound to grab and start to heal stopping good blood



newer steel doest hold and edge like the old broadheads did

here is a great article
http://users.ameritech.net/knives/knives1a.htm

read it shows angles

http://www.bowyersedge.com/broadhead.html


JD

[Kelly]

I've made a living with knives and I use this on my Bheads.
http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/LTCBH.php

The tubing is a good test, I use rubber bands though as they're more accessible.

The Lansky Rolex spoke of I use on my hunting knives that are curved in a way that I have a hard time keeping the angle even on the stone when doing it by hand.

I sharpen any heads out of the box that won't shave hair EASILY. Very few are scary sharp out of the box.

[Dave Edwards]

Kelly:

A few questions:

How long does it take to sharpen broadheads with this thing? How well does it sharpen? How does it compare to using a sharpening stone?

Thanks.

[Jerry]

Well guys all this work and just to save a few bucks!

This is what I do.......Use your dull broadheads for practice practice practice and buy a new set for hunting.....whats the problem?



Another way to go is to buy up all the cheap broadheads you can from closeouts and then use them up !

:)

[Rolex Dr.]

jerry you are 110% correct

now as an adult i look back at what i did to save a dollar and it took me 4 hours

time is money i agree

but it does kill time up at deer camp especially after dark since we dont have cable tv and only get 2-3 stations and they all suck LOL


JD

[Dave Edwards]

Jerry:

The cost never occurred to me until now. When I do things myself, it's usually to accomplish something rather than to save a buck. I'm not one to watch TV or movies. I enjoy getting doing things done and learning something as well.

Taking this just a bit further - I sell American made Bagmaster range bags, cases, and other products. I probably have the largest selection around. If folks just wanted to save money, I'd never make a sale. A toolbag, bucket, or something cheaper from China would work just fine. Some folks don't have a problem with spending a little more for something that's made here and works well, others, on the other hand, gloat about the money that they saved. Everybody's different.

Maybe I'm just different as well. That's not a problem. I'd rather see if I can put an edge back on some blades for a few hours.

Take a kid shooting.

[Kelly]

Kelly:

A few questions:

How long does it take to sharpen broadheads with this thing? How well does it sharpen? How does it compare to using a sharpening stone?

Thanks.

Dave,
Not long. Essentially it IS a sharpening stone but it's just a different format where the angle is idiot proof.

With a whet stone, sharpening stone, carbide block whatever YOU provide the angle with your hand free form. This is where it gets tricky. On my kitchen knives it's easier as they're 6-12" of a single angle surface generally.

Now a scimitar, or any fade to the tip makes it a little harder as the angle needs to be adjusted as you near the fade.

Broadhead blades are just to small to not bleed on a big stone. :)

The lansky system is a small strip of varying grit stones on the post and the angle is ensured by the....well, ya kinda have to see it.

The little "Zipper" works well in a pinch but it will flat out eat your metal whether knife or B head or whatever. It'll get 'er done but the cost is more metal taken than needs to be.

[Valhalla SS]

Lanksy's work great for broadheads, use the 25 degree hole and it'll get them where they need to be. I bought a Diamond set of Lansky's to sharpen knives with unitl I learned about convex grinds, now i only use the Lansky for the Zwickey's. I use a mousepad and then a strop for the knives now.

[ro2]

If it means I spend an extra couple dollars every year on replacement blades,to be sure mine have perfect edges I guess thats the least I can do. Then again did the early masters of bow hunting throw out dull arrow heads or did they resharpen. I bet they couldnt sharpen as good as we can now a days. and Fred bear harvested almost everything with his recurve and cedar shaft arrows. I still use the bear style 2 blades. good topic guys!!:thumbup: