Help mounting precision base, rings and scope.

[bcavanau]

I need to get a base, rings, and scope mounted. I don't really want to buy a torque wrench, and levels for a one time install. Looking for someone who is attentive to details, and can do a precision install. Hoping to get into some long range shooting at some point, and want it to be perfect.

This will be mounting an EGW base on an Remington 700, installing Vortex (Seekins) Precision rings and a Vortex PST 6-24 FFP scope.

If I don't get any offers, I think Williams might be my best bet, unless someone can recommend a better shop.

[sonicmatter]

I need to get a base, rings, and scope mounted. I don't really want to buy a torque wrench, and levels for a one time install. Looking for someone who is attentive to details, and can do a precision install. Hoping to get into some long range shooting at some point, and want it to be perfect.

This will be mounting an EGW base on an Remington 700, installing Vortex (Seekins) Precision rings and a Vortex PST 6-24 FFP scope.

If I don't get any offers, I think Williams might be my best bet, unless someone can recommend a better shop.I don't claim to be a gunsmith, nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but installing a scope isn't that hard. You're 1 county over from me. Assuming the rifle already has holes drilled for the base and all you need to do is put screws in the holes and tighten them, I have scope leveling tools and an inch-pound torque driver and would be happy to help you if you want to drive over here.

[EricF517]

I need to get a base, rings, and scope mounted. I don't really want to buy a torque wrench, and levels for a one time install. Looking for someone who is attentive to details, and can do a precision install. Hoping to get into some long range shooting at some point, and want it to be perfect.

This will be mounting an EGW base on an Remington 700, installing Vortex (Seekins) Precision rings and a Vortex PST 6-24 FFP scope.

If I don't get any offers, I think Williams might be my best bet, unless someone can recommend a better shop.

Ok when installing a base:

#1 thing to do it to put a screw in the front of the base, the very front and tighten it. Don't worry about torque or anything yet. Only do the VERY FRONT screw. Check the rear with a piece of paper and see if you have any gaps around the edges, or the whole rear. If you do you will need to bed your base.
#2 If you need to bed your base, fill screw holes with play dough, mix JB Weld, use shoe polish or Hornady spray case lube as release agent on action, fill holes in base with play dough, put JB on base and tighten VERY FRONT screw and let dry
#3 remove base after drying, clean out play dough, torque properly

The EGW probably won't need to be bedded, but safe to check. Even the slightest gaps will put unwanted pressures and stresses on an optic as they are super magnified by putting the rings on.

Installing rings:

#1 finger tight the bases on where you think your rings will need to set. With tops off, get STRAIGH BEHIND the rifle prone with the optic on the highest power. Get it set near where you want so you know the rings are in the right slots.
#2 once rings are in right spot torque them to base
#3 reset eye relief on highest magnification
#4 finger tight tops of rings where there is enough room to turn the optic slightly
#5 use a square metal bar between base and bottom of optic to square the base and bottom of the optic. That way your reticle is square to the bore axis.
#6 torque the tops of rings
#7 go sight in


I am only about 15 minutes from Byron if you are in the Byron in Shiawassee County.

[sonicmatter]

I've installed more than a few scopes but I've never done the above in Eric517's post. You're welcome to use my tools but you're better off with Eric517 if he's offering assistance.

[Double_Tap]

Ok when installing a base:

#1 thing to do it to put a screw in the front of the base, the very front and tighten it. Don't worry about torque or anything yet. Only do the VERY FRONT screw. Check the rear with a piece of paper and see if you have any gaps around the edges, or the whole rear. If you do you will need to bed your base.
#2 If you need to bed your base, fill screw holes with play dough, mix JB Weld, use shoe polish or Hornady spray case lube as release agent on action, fill holes in base with play dough, put JB on base and tighten VERY FRONT screw and let dry
#3 remove base after drying, clean out play dough, torque properly

The EGW probably won't need to be bedded, but safe to check. Even the slightest gaps will put unwanted pressures and stresses on an optic as they are super magnified by putting the rings on.

Installing rings:

#1 finger tight the bases on where you think your rings will need to set. With tops off, get STRAIGH BEHIND the rifle prone with the optic on the highest power. Get it set near where you want so you know the rings are in the right slots.
#2 once rings are in right spot torque them to base
#3 reset eye relief on highest magnification
#4 finger tight tops of rings where there is enough room to turn the optic slightly
#5 use a square metal bar between base and bottom of optic to square the base and bottom of the optic. That way your reticle is square to the bore axis.
#6 torque the tops of rings
#7 go sight in


I am only about 15 minutes from Byron if you are in the Byron in Shiawassee County.

The only thing I would add: once the rifle is level, use a bright piece of weighted mason string hung from a tree 50 to 100 yards away to line up the vertical cross hair. After sending my Viper PST back to Vortex for a canted reticle that wasn't canted, according to their columnator, the tech from Vortex called me and suggested this method because he said even taking the turret caps off doesn't guarantee the primary turret is square to the reticle, nor is the bottom flat of the scope. Mine is now square to the plumb line, but putting the level on the turret it's about a half bubble off. A couple degrees at 100 yards isn't going to show up, but at 500+ the change in poi left or right will be significant. BTW, Vortex has awesome customer service!

[bcavanau]

I was able to get the scope mounted. Base did not need to be bedded.

Thanks for the offers on the tools, I was able to find an acquaintance (friend of a friend, after several calls) and got it mounted, and bore sighted. Went to the range on Saturday, and was on the paper first shot. Was a little cold, and I didn't have a great rest/bags, so I will have to go back again to do a true sight in. Didn't measure, but probably getting about a 4-5 inch group at 100 yards, using a bi-pod, and my hand/arm as a rear rest...all while shivering.

Anyone recommend a good rest, or good shooting bags? Is a Lead Sled any good for getting dialed in really well? I know I will need to get some good bags (at least a rear) to go with my bi-pod at some point. Probably will need a sling, and shooting mat at some point as well...

[DP425]

I'm actually surprised no one landed in here telling him to lap the rings.


Maybe people are finally starting to understand that isn't appropriate for quality rings and base, properly installed.

[04JRB]

Anyone recommend a good rest, or good shooting bags? Is a Lead Sled any good for getting dialed in really well? I know I will need to get some good bags (at least a rear) to go with my bi-pod at some point. Probably will need a sling, and shooting mat at some point as well...

I have a lead sled, a TAB gear Str8 laced, a Caldwell tack driver (shaped like an X) and a Triad large "wedgie"

I never use the lead sled anymore, more trouble than its worth for me and I HATE lugging it around. I prefer to zero in the same way Ill be shooting the rifle, not using a rest that impairs ergo's while using it and actually shooting the rifle differently. If Im shooting with a bipod and rear bag, Ill zero that way. I leave it on the shelf at home.

The TAB Str8 Laced is awesome on my long guns. I REALLY like this rear bag, it is very light, perfect amount of fill and works great in any direction you position it.

The Wedgie by triad is what I used with the AR. This one is pretty heavy, and has a bit too much fill IMO, but it works well with my AR. I got this one before getting the TAB Str8 Laced above, it has been replaced by it on all but the AR's.

The Caldwell Tack Driver is what used to use when Pdog hunting instead of a bipod. Its great if you are sitting at a bench all day, but heavy and cumbersome if you have to move about all day with your gear. now, bipod all the way.