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Eternal Sun
05-17-2009, 09:13 PM
What's the best way to remove surface rust from a shotgun reciever without ruining/damaging the bluing underneath. I bought a shotgun which has "fingerprint" acid damage. Not very bad, more surface rust, but enough where it needs more attention than an oily rag can fix. The bluing still is in good shape, so I want to protect that. Thanks.

Tedfs
05-17-2009, 10:05 PM
I've had good luck with #0000 steel wool and GunZilla, just go gently with the steel wool.

ColonelKurtz
05-17-2009, 10:22 PM
I've heard to stay away from the steel wool, though I have tried that myself before I heard that advice, oh well. Heard Howards Restor-A-Finish was the way to go, supposedly available from antique stores.

RifleGuy
05-18-2009, 05:02 AM
I have used the #0000 steel wool, and a bit of Kroil to remove light rust, then (fresh) #0000 and some Brownell's cold blue to re-touch the finish. I've met with excellent results.

From what I've been reading of Gunzilla, I would use that before the Kroil. Matter of fact, tops on today's To-Do list is order a goodly supply of Gunzilla...

Good luck!

Maybe post a few before & after pic's when you are done?

jmoos54575
05-18-2009, 07:36 AM
If you want to do a techie job on it use electrolysis. It removes only the rust and deposits without touching the bluing. This is a Type 38 Arisaka I'm refurbing. The results were excellent.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010089.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010088.jpg

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010091.jpg

Here's a link with details on how to set it up. It's pretty easy.

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=62728&hilit=electrolysis

wJAKE19
05-18-2009, 07:41 AM
jmoos,

i bet your wife loved you after that one... :headinj:

mitommy
05-18-2009, 08:07 AM
If you want to do a techie job on it use electrolysis. It removes only the rust and deposits without touching the bluing.

Your wife is going to be MAAAD at you :smile:

jmoos54575
05-18-2009, 08:16 AM
ROFL. In this case I'm fortunate. I'm single and live alone. It did leave a ring but a little Bon Ami and elbow grease took care of that problem. I usually use plastic storage bins but that Arisaka is so long it didn't fit. Thought about using a length of plastic rain gutter but it was late Sat. night and decided what the heck.
I'll post more pics of the Ari once the stock is done.

jmoos54575
05-18-2009, 08:20 AM
Here's a link to a product for doing just the inside of the bore. Electrolysis does work well.
http://www.lovemyguns.com/

jmoos54575
05-18-2009, 08:23 AM
What's the best way to remove surface rust from a shotgun reciever without ruining/damaging the bluing underneath. I bought a shotgun which has "fingerprint" acid damage. Not very bad, more surface rust, but enough where it needs more attention than an oily rag can fix. The bluing still is in good shape, so I want to protect that. Thanks.
If you're interested Eternal, bring your gun over and I'll clean it up for you. It can take a few hours.

Eternal Sun
05-18-2009, 04:16 PM
If you're interested Eternal, bring your gun over and I'll clean it up for you. It can take a few hours.
jmoos, that looks "sinister". If your serious, I will. We won't need a tub, because I can strip it down to just the reciever. It's a Remington Model 1100, and only the receiver was effected. All else looks like new....

jmoos54575
05-18-2009, 05:10 PM
jmoos, that looks "sinister". If your serious, I will. We won't need a tub, because I can strip it down to just the reciever. It's a Remington Model 1100, and only the receiver was effected. All else looks like new....
Absolutely Eternal. I'll PM you with my personal info.

jmoos54575
05-18-2009, 05:50 PM
By the time I finished cleaning, the area's that were no longer blued were squeaky clean, bone dry and down to white metal. Originally I made 4 passes through the barrel with Breakfree, a brush and then a patch. I didn't think I would be able to shoot this "Ari". The scale on the breach end was too bad. After electrolysis the rifling is in great shape. This dude is definitely going to feel rounds again.
I did touch up the bluing after cleaning.
First pic shows the worst area's with some pitting. Fortunately even the pits were clean enough to accept the bluing.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010092-Copy.jpg
You'll notice that the "Mum" is still intact on this gun. A rare thing.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010095.jpg
The rear site even works like the Nagoya arsenal intended.
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010096.jpg
http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010097.jpg

Eternal Sun
05-18-2009, 06:59 PM
Wow, Nice work!

sprink
05-18-2009, 07:43 PM
edited

Tedfs
05-19-2009, 08:07 AM
That beats the hell out of scrubbing with very fine steel wool and trying not to take off the bluing.

thank you for sharing that link and the info !

Pyzik
05-19-2009, 08:51 AM
The electrolysis method is on my to do list this summer. (redoing a carcano)

When I told my wife how it works, the first thing she said is "you're not using the tub". Lol. Then she said "be carefull".

jmoos54575
05-19-2009, 09:13 AM
For you guys that want to try this yourselves, "BE CAREFUL AROUND FLAMES". This process does give off a small amount of hydrogen. Keep the area ventilated and no smoking. :thumbup:

For everyone else that likes the idea but does not want to try it yourself, PM me and we can schedule my assistance. You'll notice that I have a more sophisticated piece of equipment for the electrical current. I've used it in a process to remove colloidal gold from water.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/jmoos54575/Type%2038/P1010089-copy.jpg

Then, post up your before and after pics.

chewy
05-19-2009, 09:55 AM
I think I'm going to go by a rusted gun now just to try that!


Of course I won't use the tub because my wife WILL kill me :D

dfrak
05-24-2009, 09:47 PM
Would it be safe to use the electrolysis method on chromed parts?
Would the chrome be affected?

Thanks,
Dan

jmoos54575
05-25-2009, 10:54 PM
Would it be safe to use the electrolysis method on chromed parts?
Would the chrome be affected?

Thanks,
Dan
Yes Dan, it is safe on chrome. To remove chrome you need more amperage and a slightly acidic PH. This solution is almost PH neutral. Are you trying to remove the chrome that's already there or save it?

dfrak
05-26-2009, 04:37 AM
Are you trying to remove the chrome that's already there or save it?

Trying to save it. They are actually old, chome plated bicycle parts with varying amounts of rust.

Anything special steps you would recommend?

Thanks,
Dan

jmoos54575
05-26-2009, 08:03 AM
Sure Dan. Use a nylon bristle brush and a good household cleaner (Simple Green or one of the citrus cleaners). For small parts I like an old tooth brush. Degrease the parts. After electrolysis you can polish the chrome with some jewelers rouge and a Dremel or a polishing buff in a drill for larger parts. Finish 'em off with Flitz or a good paste wax to help prevent the rust from coming back.
Good luck with your project Dan.

dfrak
05-26-2009, 08:15 AM
Thanks for the tips!
Dan

customizedcreationz
05-27-2009, 07:39 AM
Be careful electro stripping your parts that are plated. I strip my parts like this all the time and if you use to much amperage ( already stated ) you will pull the nickel off. You will also make it highly susceptible to rust if you don't thoroughly clean it after you strip it. There are many methods to electro strip your parts, using car batteries, battery chargers and more. Some people use light bulbs as a rheostat to control the current.

Check out Caswell Metal Finishing Forum. (http://forum.caswellplating.com/)

Lots of good info there. I use different acids when I electro strip , depending on what I am stripping. But I can say using acids you have to monitor it. Or you will remove metal. You can use Arm and Hammer baking soda as an electrolyte in the solution if you want to just remove rust and not worry about metal removal. Use Coat hangers to hold your parts, and you'll need something as an anode to get the current going in the solution. Watch your amperage per sq inch and your pretty much good to go. You might have to let it sit for awhile depending on how bad the rust is.

Also as noted be careful as it will produce fumes. When using acids, have a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA !!! This will make you sick if you inhale the fumes enough.

You can use Muratic Acid, Phosphoric Acid , Battery acid's , vinegar and more. Each one has a special property behind it.

The electro stripping is a great method to use, you can also do it electroless and just use the acids and give it a bath in them. This is alot slower, but if your worried about removing metal, might be a safe way for you to play at a cheap level.

Just be careful and use a well ventilated area !! Cant stress that enough.

Todd

dfrak
05-27-2009, 07:56 AM
Thanks for the info, Todd.
I'll check out that forum as well.
Dan

Joel216
06-01-2009, 08:48 AM
Tried the Electrolysis method last night on a Star model B. I was surprised at how much crap came off of the gun I am redoing. I had already stripped the bluing and I thought most of the rust. Do not use a 12 volt power supply it is a little too much and did cause some pitting.
I will post some pictures after I finish the gun. I did not take before pictures but lets just say that the gun was really abused but still shoots great.

Tedfs
06-02-2009, 08:35 AM
This has me wondering how well something like this could be used for cleaning a firearm to remove copper deposits.

Would this work on something like that and what voltage would be needed ?

jmoos54575
06-02-2009, 08:44 AM
This has me wondering how well something like this could be used for cleaning a firearm to remove copper deposits.

Would this work on something like that and what voltage would be needed ?
This process works great for that kind of work too Ted. In fact there is a device just for cleaning the inside of barrels.
http://www.lovemyguns.com/
You'll notice that they use a rubber plug to block the bottom of the barrel and O-rings to prevent the rod from touching the barrel. The voltage and amperage should remain the same. I have the added benefit of being able to control the amperage separately from the voltage. I usually hold the amps between .4 and .6.

Update. I just came across this PDF showing the process and results:
http://www.lovemyguns.com/ebc%20review.pdf

dfrak
06-02-2009, 08:44 AM
This has me wondering how well something like this could be used for cleaning a firearm to remove copper deposits.

Would this work on something like that and what voltage would be needed ?

I bet someone has come up with a home-made version, but Outers make a product to remove lead and copper. It's called the Foul Out III, but I couldn't find much about it at their web site.
Midway sells it:
http://www.midwayusa.com/Eproductpage.Exe/showproduct?saleitemid=243419

Dan