Removing mild rust from engraving on nickel receiver

[Quack Addict]

I picked up on a mostly immaculate 20ga Ducks Unlimited edition Browning BPS a couple years ago. It has a nickel receiver with an engraved wildlife scene. Problem is there is some very mild surface rust inside the grooves of the engraving.

I have tried rubbing the rust out with a silicone rag, using gun oil, even a product called "Break Free" to no avail.

The rust is pretty minor - no pitting or anything like that. Honestly, it looks like intermittent and sporatic dust or loose paper fibers in the engraving grooves. I don't think there is any added value in the gun being a DU edition but I definitely don't want to do it any harm.

So... what's the best option for getting the rust out?

Thanks!

[pgaplayerless]

I picked up on a mostly immaculate 20ga Ducks Unlimited edition Browning BPS a couple years ago. It has a nickel receiver with an engraved wildlife scene. Problem is there is some very mild surface rust inside the grooves of the engraving.

I have tried rubbing the rust out with a silicone rag, using gun oil, even a product called "Break Free" to no avail.

The rust is pretty minor - no pitting or anything like that. Honestly, it looks like intermittent and sporatic dust or loose paper fibers in the engraving grooves. I don't think there is any added value in the gun being a DU edition but I definitely don't want to do it any harm.

So... what's the best option for getting the rust out?

Thanks!

Try naval jelly. It a rust dissolver so it till take off bluing, so be careful. It should not hurt the nickle finish or make the engraving dull but it's try it on small of not visible area first.

White bottle, pink labeling, sold in Home Depot, etc.

[karcent]

I would try Gunzilla before I'd use Navel Jelly.
Gunzilla with eat the rust but not harm the rest of the gun.
Navel Jelly can change the color of the metal.
Just apply the Gunzilla and let it sit, re-wetting as need for a few days.

[Toledo Kid]

I would try Gunzilla before I'd use Navel Jelly.
Gunzilla with eat the rust but not harm the rest of the gun.
Navel Jelly can change the color of the metal.
Just apply the Gunzilla and let it sit, re-wetting as need for a few days.X2....then hit it with some BC Baracade.

[knu2xs]

Be extremely careful with naval jelly. I recondition vintage Drum's & Drum Kits and nickel was a common finish used on Rims, Lugs, Mounts etc. before chrome finally became more popular. I use Flitz Metal Polish, which also works on plastics and as a paint restorer so it is a multi purpose polish. The thing I like about Flitz is that it contains no abrasives or ammonia so is safer than many other polishes, certainly far safer than naval jelly, which I would avoid like the plague, that is unless you want to get down to bare metal..................

The one thing you don't want to do, no matter the type of polish used, is to overwork a nickel finish, if you do you may possibly remove the nickel. Small, soft brushes, like an old toothbrush will help you get into the nooks & crannies. Just remember that the rust you are removing is an abrasive, as is any dirt that may be imbedded down in there, so you don't want to work a dirty rag or brush around too much or you could end up scratching what it is you're trying to clean up....................

[twofour]

Try kroil and 2000 grade wet sand paper,

[gman]

I used Turtlewax Chrome polish/rust remover, works great to remove rust on my chrome rims, so tried it on a nickel finished gun for my neighbor and it worked great. Like said before, use an old toothbrush for the grooves and go easy.

Gman

[knu2xs]

Try kroil and 2000 grade wet sand paper,

For those not familiar with using any abrasive I would urge caution, especially in this case where the rust is located down at the bottom of the engraving. The possibility exists that if you used a sandpaper, no matter how fine, that you would do nothing but pass over the rust and create scratches, however light, over the engraving and, at worst, break the finish where the engraving meets the surface...........

Just as I was about to post this I noticed the above post about another type of polish, it may be excellent stuff but I have no first hand experience with it. For the long term I would try and make sure that any polish you use be abrasive and ammonia free. Ammonia can break down some finishes and alloys over time.

I am familiar with Flitz and for those who have never heard of it before it's really good stuff. I've used it for years. While Flitz offers other types of polish they have two types for Metal, the liquid & the paste, with the paste being much stronger. I tend to use the liquid because it readily soaks into your applicator so is easier to control. The paste tends to get squished into areas where I don't want it and since you also have to get it off of there the liquid is much easier for many jobs, but it all depends on the surface.

Below is a late 1960's Ludwig Drum Co Stand I did last winter that was in otherwise excellent condition if not for all the surface rust. I worked nothing but stands that were a lot like this one for almost four months straight (6-7 hours a day, 7 days a week) and developed a pretty good technique for getting into all those nooks & crannies. Dealing with the rust that gathers down in the backs of those rivets and down inside those leg brackets can be a royal pain...........

Before:

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL770/2917504/21191129/371718927.jpg

The same stand after getting "the treatment":

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL770/2917504/21191129/371718958.jpg

[knu2xs]

I want to clarify something about nickel finishes. When I said that you have to be careful so as not to remove the finish I was referring to the type of nickel finish I work the most, which has a grey-like look to it and is a lot "softer" than the harder, bright nickle finish. The rule of thumb is this, if when polishing you get a black "crud" coming off on your apllicator, I use Scott Shop Towels cut into quarters, then folded again into quarters, then you are generally removing the finish, or material from the item being polished.

Example, anybody that has ever polished Brass will have noticed their rag turn black rather quickly, that black is actual Brass that has been removed and the same applies to other finishes. In the case of Cymbals (Bronze & Tin) many people love to keep them clean of fingerprints but they are actually slowing working away at the Cymbal itself every time they put the polish to it, which may not be a good thing. Cymbals are hammered, then lathed creating tonal grooves & ridges that allow the Cymbal to vibrate in a certain manner so by removing metal from the grooves & ridges you change the character of the Cymbal, not good if you like how it sounds. If you don't like it then polishing it may actually change it to a sound you do like..............

The only reason I mention all this is that I've seen some nice pieces damaged by people with good intentions. When in doubt, take your time and see what developes, which is why I have never used any mechanical method for polishing unless I have experience using that method on that particular finish. Things can get away from you fast, real fast........

[Passport]

Try kroil and 2000 grade wet sand paper,


+1, and or steelwool...........

[Mike in Michigan]

I have used Ketchup to clean delicate metalwork with good results. Gob it on, wait 10 minutes, rinse with hot water. Check the progress, repeat as necessary. The magic is the acidity from tomatoes. Go slow. While the acidity is very weak, it is still an acid. Test on small area first, of course. Any ketchup will work, with the cheaper store brands working as well as the 57 brand.