1911 light strikes

[lawrov]

I've had a couple of light strikes from my 1911 - primer is hit and slightly dented but no bang. Restriking the same primer will set it off. - This has happened twice and it appears that the primer was properly seated in both cases.

Is this more likely a reloading issue or something with my pistol? It's only got about 400 rds through it.

I've tried to replicate it - pressure on the safety - lack of pressure on the grip safety - etc, but I can't get it to repeat - still I'm somewhat nervous as I would like this thing to go bang each time the hammer falls. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Lawrov

[Beretta151]

lawrov don't fret about it. From what i've read it sounds like your using reloads. i've shot 1000's of reloads and it's happend to me to it doesn't matter what primer you use once in a while you get a hard one and it might take two to three strikes to set it off and sometimes it won't go. i have never had it happen to me with factory ammo which you'll be using if your carrying the gun. now if this is happening with factory ammo i'd get it checked out. you might have problems with your firing pin.

MIKE

[M1911A1]

Beretta 151 is correct. It shouldn't happen with factory loads. If it is doing that with factory loads, then it is in the firing pin or spring. If you have removed your firing pin for cleaning, be sure that you put the spring back on it the same way it came off. If the FP spring is on backwards it can cause light strikes. An old timer's test is to use a new pencil with an eraser.
In your unloaded pistol, put the eraser end down the barrel, cock the hammer and squeeze the trigger. The FP strike should be enough to push the pencil out of the barrel with some force. Even with the muzzle pointed straight up the pencil would hit the ceiling. (it still works that way, even with series 80 pistols)

[Tallbear]

CCi primers are a little harder (metal) than the others. If that's what is used in your reloads, you can switch brands and it should fix the problem.

[lawrov]

Thanks for the responses- I'll try it out.

[45 acp]

CCi primers are a little harder (metal) than the others. If that's what is used in your reloads, you can switch brands and it should fix the problem.
I have found just the opposite . All I use now are CCI primers cuz I have found that go bang all the time.


This has happened twice and it appears that the primer was properly seated in both cases.
They Would appear that way after going bang.
The first strike of the firing pin seated the primer and then the second strike made it go bang.

[Ktulu]

I'm with 45acp on this one. My first thought is that the primers were not seated all the way.

I've shot 1000's of reloads with CCI primers and I have never had one fail to go off in my 1911s. Primer hardness should not be an issue in a 1911 unless you have an extremely light mainspring.

[Kimber45]

I've put 10's of thousands of CCI primers through my 1911's and have never had one fail. Since the gun is new I would guess that the mainspring is okat. I'd look at the firing pin first. Is the spring on correctly? Has it broken? Or did you over lub it? Too much oil with a +spring can cause the firing pin to "drag" especially after a few rounds have deposited crun in the channel.

[alex-vitek]

I have had some Winchester large pistol primers give me a few problems. And, I have heard other people mention Win LP problems. This could mean that they had a bad batch or two of their LP primers get past quality control.

What some of you might find interesting is that a gun nut out in Arizona did some experimenting and testing of the hardness of primers. His results are that they all are the same hardness of brass alloy in the primer cup. The hardness of the anvil metal was not tested.

It does sound like the original problem could have been a bad primer to begin with or a small problem with the firing pin.

[Ktulu]

What some of you might find interesting is that a gun nut out in Arizona did some experimenting and testing of the hardness of primers. His results are that they all are the same hardness of brass alloy in the primer cup. The hardness of the anvil metal was not tested.

Darn gun nuts! That is interesting. I think Mythbusters needs to do an episode on it. :D I read an article about primer hardness 6 months or so ago. It drew the same conclusions that all the primers were the same "hardness." Still, it's pretty widely known that a revolver (S&W 625 for example) with a tricked out trigger will have problems with CCI primers that a switch to Federal primers will cure. Whether "hardness" refers to the actual hardness of the metal in a primer or just how difficult it is to set off, I don't know.

[karcent]

I'm not a primer expert, but there could also be other variables beside hardness of the metal. How about the thickness of the metal, the distance between the cup and anvil or the formulation, distribution and amount of the priming explosive?

[lawrov]

I've got a 7 lb double action trigger job on a S&W 610. It reliably will set off Federal silver primers but not factory S&B, American Eagle (also federal?), or winchester factory ammo.

Hard or soft, Federal silver primers go off easier with a lighter trigger spring. I also use an extended firing pin from C&S, but federal primers made it dependable.

If it's just an advertising pitch from Federal, someone needs to convince me how I can make my 610 missfire with factory ammo, but not with reloads using Federal primers. With factory ammo the stuff will usually go off on the second time around.

Now if I only didn't have the missfire problem with Winchester Primers and my 45. On the 45 missfires, I am now almost positive it is primers not fully seated. Pencil test works perfectly and I have recently started speeding up more on the press - i.e. probably not putting that extra push in to get the primer in tight. I'll experiment some more next time I reload.

Later,
Lawrov

Lawrov

[alex-vitek]

How about the thickness of the metal, the distance between the cup and anvil or the formulation, distribution and amount of the priming explosive?
All the reading I have done on this leads me to to have to go with the formulation, as you called it, of the primer compound. There is another term that is used by those in the factory ammo trade and I cannot remember it right now.

But, it refers to how much impact is needed to cause the primer compound to detonate. Some compunds will explore with much less of an impact than others. Federal's compound is one that comes to mind as being very easy to set off.

And, primer manufacturers will make and distribute more than one type of primer. We, as reloaders will get a primer intended for our market but the guy who has the licenses to be a commercial reloader has the option of buying a primer intended for his market which is supposed to be a different primer than what is used by the factory which is loading virgin loads.