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  1. #1
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    3D printer for hire?

    http://www.guns.com/2013/05/21/intro...nted-ar-stock/

    This has inspired my greatly, but the cost of entry into a decent 3D printer that has a hot enough to print in nylon is too high for just one project. So I'm hoping someone can hook me up with someone with a 3D printer who can work this commission for me [for compensation of course]. I'd like to print one of these stocks but with a couple small design changes.

    Mods, sorry if this belongs in the marketplace but I wasn't entirely sure. If that's the case I'll take the warning and just delete the thread.

  2. #2
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    No, you're good…this will likely be good for discussion.

    I don't know of any local sources, but check out:
    http://www.emachineshop.com/machine-...ce/page83.html
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightshade1 View Post
    http://www.guns.com/2013/05/21/intro...nted-ar-stock/

    ... I'd like to print one of these stocks but with a couple small design changes.
    ....
    What changes?

    The only thing that came in solid is the buttpad.

    Logo is also a mess.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by postban View Post
    What changes?

    The only thing that came in solid is the buttpad.

    Logo is also a mess.
    The only thing that came in solid?

    the change would be:
    -Modifying the design so that it uses a rifle-length buffer tube, and primarily affixes through the screw at the back of the buffer tube. (as it appears, the only thing holding the stock on is the grip screw)

    I agree though, the logo is a bit too intricate and probably supposed to be shaved off before printing. And Tom, thanks for the pointer but it doesn't look like they print in Nylon.

  5. #5
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    Seems like it would be hard to get the safety and takedown detent springs in/out with a single piece unit that also goes around the buffer tube.
    I'm especially interested to figure how how they handle that in their all-in-one-lower-stock-grip design... but I have to track down a copy somewhere...
    DISCLAIMER: Disclaimer. The opinions expressed in this post are those of the author, DrScaryGuy. They do not purport to reflect the opinions or views of MGO, its board of directors, or its members.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrScaryGuy View Post
    Seems like it would be hard to get the safety and takedown detent springs in/out with a single piece unit that also goes around the buffer tube.
    I'm especially interested to figure how how they handle that in their all-in-one-lower-stock-grip design... but I have to track down a copy somewhere...
    I was just going to drill the safety spring capture tube all the way through the grip and then tap it for a set screw, and install the bits from the bottom.

  7. #7
    In Memoriam postban's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightshade1 View Post
    The only thing that came in solid?
    Yeah, the other components imported as a mess of surfaces. It will take some time to clean them up.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nightshade1 View Post
    the change would be:
    -Modifying the design so that it uses a rifle-length buffer tube, and primarily affixes through the screw at the back of the buffer tube. (as it appears, the only thing holding the stock on is the grip screw)
    So a through hole with an A2 style buttplate hole (matching cha****) and accepting a standard buffer screw into a rifle length buffer tube. The "spacers" would need the tube hole through them, also a recess in the 3d buttplate to get the screw close enough.

    I would have to pull my A2 stock off my 20" Gov't to get dims unless you got 'em.

    Printed Nylon is no where near as robust as a molded Nylon component. One 'whoops' to the pavement and it will break.
    I think this would be the new weak point in the stock. Printed stuff does not do well when you apply pressure to a small area like the cha**** of that screw.
    Posing for pictures and light use it would be ok. You actually torque down on it to eliminate stock movement it will probably crack.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by postban View Post
    Yeah, the other components imported as a mess of surfaces. It will take some time to clean them up.




    So a through hole with an A2 style buttplate hole (matching cha****) and accepting a standard buffer screw into a rifle length buffer tube. The "spacers" would need the tube hole through them, also a recess in the 3d buttplate to get the screw close enough.

    I would have to pull my A2 stock off my 20" Gov't to get dims unless you got 'em.

    Printed Nylon is no where near as robust as a molded Nylon component. One 'whoops' to the pavement and it will break.
    I think this would be the new weak point in the stock. Printed stuff does not do well when you apply pressure to a small area like the cha**** of that screw.
    Posing for pictures and light use it would be ok. You actually torque down on it to eliminate stock movement it will probably crack.
    That was not what I was hoping to hear. v_v Though is that with wet nylon or dried nylon? I wasn't planning on using the ca****ed screw, more an actual bolt with a stainless steel plate to spread out the weight. And I do have a rifle tube and a mic if you want to seriously pursue this.

    It was either this, or buy an airsoft P90 to hack apart.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightshade1 View Post
    That was not what I was hoping to hear. v_v Though is that with wet nylon or dried nylon? ..
    Nylon specs Sounds a bit optimistic to me, not all that tough.

    Spool deposited.

    Not pursuing, but I do sometimes get bored.
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  10. #10
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    The rifle length buffer tube's dimensions (outside of the receiver)
    -Immediate Flange is .130" thick, 1.305" diameter, small ca****
    -Overall tube diameter is 1.115" thick
    -Length of tube beyond the flange is 9.230" long
    -Protrusion at the end (threaded for end screw) is .730" dia, .200" thick

    And in doing research on printing material, apparently Nylon will absorb moisture, its hygroscopic like brake fluid and when its "wet" it is messier and weaker, like...shot, its been a long time since I took that welding class...7040 smaw rods. Apparently if you bake the moisture out of the filament before using it it deposits cleaner and is much stronger.
    Last edited by Nightshade1; 01-12-2016 at 07:41 PM.

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