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  1. #1
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    Lucas Extreme gun oil

    Has any one had any experience with Lucas gun oil the Blue Exteme? I use Mobil1, no problems and I am pleased with this oil...just checking if something else is better.

  2. #2
    MGO Member Ol` Joe's Avatar
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    A shooting buddy uses and likes Lucas, I suspect mostly due to a history of satisfaction with Lucas products in his families heavy equipment.
    As for one being better then the next, as long as there is no excessive wear or failure to function due to lube with your firearms I don't believe there is any benefit in switching from one oil to another except maybe for price.
    "Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt".

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  3. #3
    99% of these 'miracle' lubes and cleaners are made of 99% similar ingredients with 1% of of a different ingredient included to warrant a different name.

    (ATF or Power steering fluid mixed w/ acetone is as good as any 'designer' gun product. Try applying it then try getting it off )

  4. #4
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    It all depends on your nose.

    I payed extra for strawberry smelling oil for the sleds to keep the headaches down.

  5. #5
    I am a Forum User
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    I use all the Lucas gun related products I am quite pleased. The oil/grease stays where you apply it. I use the marine grease for long term storage. When taking apart my bolt after shooting my AR The firing pin accumulates carbon and you literally have to scrape it off. After using Lucas extreme gun oil its a simple wipe off. The carbon is almost liquefied.
    I've always used Hoppes and Rem oil. I've never had any issues always have taken care of my firearms.
    I've used Lucas car products that's why I tried it for my guns.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeDee View Post
    99% of these 'miracle' lubes and cleaners are made of 99% similar ingredients with 1% of of a different ingredient included to warrant a different name.

    (ATF or Power steering fluid mixed w/ acetone is as good as any 'designer' gun product. Try applying it then try getting it off )

    As a question, why use Acetone? I assume as a thinner, but it just seems fundamentally wrong to add even a mild acid to something you're applying to your (usually) expensive firearm investments. As a note Acetone typically evaporates from other fluids it doesn't become a solution with, and it is mildly corrosive to steel and slightly more so to iron / copper / aluminum. Given that it is applied with lubricant and intended to be left on it for rust preventative purposes it seems, counter intuitive?

    Which reminds me that WD-40 has a fairly high content of thinner/acid to make it thin enough to spray through a nozzle, and other horror stories about WD-40, to me its only useful to break bolts loose, otherwise its just going to turn to guar gum when it dries out. Don't get me wrong WD-40 has its uses, I just forbid it from being in my house or the wife will use it on everything... >.>

    Lucas for example by content is 15% zinc alkyl dithiophosphate which is an anti wear lubricant additive used in car oil once it was discovered that it was a wear preventative, it was origins go back to preventing lead copper fouling on engines. Tends to burn off and leave a phosphorus residue on catalytic converters in cars. In automobiles not so good, however tends to be corrosion resistant crystal structure on steel.

    Militec is 40-50% proprietary, which doesn't help identify or compare. Honestly I've had great experience with it, but I think part of that is in the application; apply a thin film and leave it alone. It apparently contains a chlorine, but I have never had a problem with its ability to prevent rust, none of my firearms, or more expensive cutlery show any signs of rust, or wear. I was introduced to it in the army and noted a difference when applied per its directions and NOT like CLP, tended to be easier to clean post firing, less issues during firing, and less observed burn off, didn't note any issues with it in high temp nor low temp climates, used in M4/M249/M240 and personal AR10/Mka1919/Pistol etc, with no issues and I probably clean them all once a month which is a product of OCD not a requirement of the lubricant, and after firing. I have rust pits on some cutlery that I was not previously using militec on before, changed practice now using militec on it and no further rusting.

    CLP polyalphaolefin Oil, synthetic rust inhibitors, esters & lubrication additives, dibasic Ester#1, Petroleum distillates, Hydrotreated, No listed concentrations: CLP the standard, decent cleaner, moderate lubrication excessive application causes issues also burns off military type heavier firing, terrible rust preventative (listed as light duty to temporary rust prevention) Once dipped an entire m4 (disassembled) in CLP and let it drain off, wiped off/out excess, and assembled, no hand contact or other foreign oils or other contaminates, and stored it for a weekend, came back to an orange rusty barrel and rust inside the upper receiver, bolt, firing pin etc. Id rate it as useful for cleaning only.

    Hoppe's #9 Processed Oil, Mineral Oil, Concentrations not listed:
    Insert Edit: Ethyl Alcohol <35%
    Kerosene <35%
    Trade secret ingredients <25%
    Organic Ester(trade secret) <10%
    Ammonia, aqueous <10%

    Had ok experiences with this, m4, m249, m240, m2, ar10, ended up using it as a cleaner. For which it is formulated for anyways. Tended to burn off. Also tended to accumulate dirt and other debris.

    Given contents of each product and no prior bias I'd definitely give the lucas a try, maybe when I run out of my current Militec. (Given that militec failed Army requirements some 10 times since 1984) http://www.gao.gov/new.items/d09735r.pdf That being noted, Militec may be right that the testing paramaters are flawed, as I have had absolutely zero problems with it. However having been assistant armorer for some 2-3 years I have seen the damage that WD40 can do when not removed, its easier to just say never use WD40, shaving cream, and water. That being said most other lubricants are adequate, lots of people will find a specific product that suits the balance of their needs and method of application (some pour, some spray, some drip tiny little drops), I've noted each product tends to have a specific way it needs to be applied to maximize its efficacy, but that may just be me.

    Edit add note: On subject of Lucas products most of which Ive had great experience with, never use "Lucas stop leak", lol almost cost me a power steering pump; 'guaranteed or its free' my left buttcheek. Its application turned a drip that had been a drip for months into a cascading spray.
    Last edited by Viking; 07-17-2017 at 07:55 PM.

  7. #7
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    Other notes:

    Lucas Extreme Gun Lubricant:

    Boiling point: >260°C(>500°F)
    Flash point Closedcup:212.77°C(415°F)
    Evaporationrate: : Notavailable.

    Hoppes #9
    Boiling Point: Not Available
    Flash Point: 345 "F (192 "C)

    Militec - 1:
    Initial boiling point and boiling range 598 °F (314.44 °C)
    Flash point 478.0 °F (247.8 °C) Cleveland Open Cup

    CLP: The standard
    Boiling Point / Boiling Range: 190.5°C (375°F)
    Flash point: 94°C (201°F)

    Edit: Mobile1 was a lot harder to find:
    Boiling Point / Range: > 316°C (600°F)
    Flash Point [Method]: >200°C (392°F) [ASTM D-92]
    ZINC DITHIOPHOSPHATE 0.1-1%
    DISTILLATES, HEAVY, C18-50 - BRANCHED, CYCLIC AND LINEAR 40-70%
    1-DECENE, ****POLYMER HYDROGENATED 10-20%

    PHENOL, 4,4-METHYLENEBIS(2,6-BIS(1,1-DIMETHYLETHYL)-: listed but no concentration/content
    ZINC ALKYLDITHIOPHOSPHATE: listed but no concentration/content
    Last edited by Viking; 07-17-2017 at 08:13 PM.

  8. #8
    As a question, why use Acetone? I assume as a thinner, but it just seems fundamentally wrong to add even a mild acid to something you're applying to your (usually) expensive firearm investments. As a note Acetone typically evaporates from other fluids it doesn't become a solution with, and it is mildly corrosive to steel and slightly more so to iron / copper / aluminum. Given that it is applied with lubricant and intended to be left on it for rust preventative purposes it seems, counter intuitive?

    Look it up when you have time. Plenty of tests / results.

    https://www.engineeringforchange.org...netrating-oil/

    http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cg...oolt&th=348042

    Some pros and cons as with any product - I have found it is useful as a lubricant on the order of CLP but 'slipperier.' (Think I used PS fluid instead of ATF.) It will separate when left a long time into a suspension, but can be mixed easily back to a single type liquid and
    many have compared it favorably to Kroil.

    Generally and across the board, I think it does the job w/o compromising lubricity or having to pay for a 'cachet' product but then I clean my firearms after every use regardless of round count.

    I just drip it on with a plastic drink mixer or tip of golf tee.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeDee View Post
    As a question, why use Acetone? I assume as a thinner, but it just seems fundamentally wrong to add even a mild acid to something you're applying to your (usually) expensive firearm investments. As a note Acetone typically evaporates from other fluids it doesn't become a solution with, and it is mildly corrosive to steel and slightly more so to iron / copper / aluminum. Given that it is applied with lubricant and intended to be left on it for rust preventative purposes it seems, counter intuitive?

    Look it up when you have time. Plenty of tests / results.

    https://www.engineeringforchange.org...netrating-oil/

    http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cg...oolt&th=348042

    Some pros and cons as with any product - I have found it is useful as a lubricant on the order of CLP but 'slipperier.' (Think I used PS fluid instead of ATF.) It will separate when left a long time into a suspension, but can be mixed easily back to a single type liquid and
    many have compared it favorably to Kroil.

    Generally and across the board, I think it does the job w/o compromising lubricity or having to pay for a 'cachet' product but then I clean my firearms after every use regardless of round count.

    I just drip it on with a plastic drink mixer or tip of golf tee.
    Thanks.

    I did get an opportunity to read both of those and the acetone is purely a thinner to penetrate, I think for firearms I would forgo the use of the acetone at all largely due to its corrosive albeit mildly so nature. You're not penetrating tolerances as tight as a pipe fitting anyways.

    I mentioned above about a nearly lost power steering pump, with an explosive leak spraying much of the interior of engine compartment, frame, wheel well, suspension, breaks, tire, etc and at that time did some research on the corrosive nature of power steering fluid and automatic transmission fluid, and found that generally power steering fluid and automatic transmission fluid are neither corrosive, nor will they do much to prevent corrosion. Minus a point for firearms if it's no better than CLP at preventing oxidizing.

    I have also learned that power steering fluid and ATF are both usually the same hydraulic oil, with the exception that ATF has detergents in it for the transmission. So interchangeable that many cars (to include my vehicles manual) recommends ATF in my case the mercer V variety instead of "power steering fluid" I am curious about the detergents but considering it goes into a metal gear box and is largely forgotten about for ten, twenty, infinite years or 100-200k miles I doubt that they will have any adverse effects on firearms. Both of these gearboxes get submerged in entirety preventing contact with any ambient humidity oxygen water salt etc, atf doe not need in its intended purpose to prevent rust as it displaces all of the components that cause it... still turns rust brown and later black though.

    I have no doubt ATF, or it's power steering fluid cousin would make great lubricants, even decent temperature tolerances, low burnoff, decent cost but the only thing I would be adding is something to condition against or prevent corrosion. Would need a lot more chemistry research before I decided what I would mix with it.

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