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  1. #11
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    You might also consider some lags into wall studs as well as the floor.
    Just because something is legal to do doesn't mean it is the smart thing to do.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gjgalligan View Post
    You might also consider some lags into wall studs as well as the floor.
    My thought too. Unless you tie into the wall, the safe itself would give more leverage than a pry for ripping it off the floor.

  3. #13
    MGO Member JohnJak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northcountry2007 View Post
    Thanks for the helpful bullchit response. Why do most on here feel it necessary to post crap like this, when someone is looking for help? To enlighten the two geniuses who posted BS responses, I'll make this simple. House is on a crawlspace. Even on 90 degree days the house is very cool. In the winter even with the heat set at 80 it is cold throughout the house. My concern is about moisture or sweat between the safes and the floor causing the safe to rust or corrode. Ever see when they rearrange a grocery store or Walmart, and the floors have decayed, or have rust stains or embedded dirt that's cant be removed? All I was asking is can I use something as a preventative barrier? Not worried about "holes" in the floor as I have extra planks if needed, but not enough to redo a 3' x 9' area of the floor. Main concern is to protect the safes!
    Thank you for your kind words.
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  4. #14
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    There are 2ft by 3ft cement boards meant to be installed with/under tile, I am drawing a blank as to their name but will have some limited fire resistance, not be harmed much by moisture and can be as thin as 1/4 of an inch to reduce the amount of space between floor and safe in regards to avoiding pry bar attacks. Also a bit more durable than drywall, but if you can protect its edges or protect that space between the safe, the cement board, and your floor you will have a relatively safe option that protects safe from floor and vs versa. I am sure there are more durable alternatives, but the cement board should be less than 10$ for a sheet if not less than 5$. I know you can go crazy over the top with Kevlar/fiberglass 4x8 sheets but that's not cost realistic or necessary. Especially if you can find a way to protect the seam between safe and floor, maybe mount some angle iron 1/4" thick straight to the floor with the angle riding up to the bottom of the safe, I guess the big thing is making it take long enough that it isn't worth the time/risk.

  5. #15
    MGO Member AxlMyk's Avatar
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    Beware of some pressure treated wood. That stuff + steel can equal rust/corrosion.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a sleeping pill and laxative on the same night.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
    Beware of some pressure treated wood. That stuff + steel can equal rust/corrosion.
    Very true, and applies to some OSB board adhesives as well. Regular plywood 'painted' with linseed oil (to prevent board rot) has worked well for over 25 years under several safes I have moved recently.

    Pry bar issue seems to be theoretical, rather than real. Should be fairly easy to drive a pry bar shoe under a safe sitting directly on the floor, or at least not much more difficult than driving a pry bar shoe under a safe mounted on a board. Millwrights usually elevate the edge of a heavy object by hammering a cold chisel in to create space for the pry bar shoe or toe jack.

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