Welcome to MGO's Internet Discussion Forums…Please Consider Becoming a Dues-Paying Member of the ORG…Click >>>>>HERE<<<<< for more info…………****DONATIONS**** can also be made toward MGO's Legal Defense Fund and/or MGO's Forums >>>>>HERE<<<<<

Firearms Legal Protection

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    MGO Member Forum User
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Flint, Michigan
    Posts
    60

    Trigger Travel, Return, and Modifications...

    Hey All...
    So I'm not super new to gun ownership, but I am relatively novice. Now that I'm getting more serious about what handguns I purchase for various purposes, I'm getting much more interested in the specifics of gun mechanics...

    That being said, I'm stuck between the following two firearms for my new CPL (CCW) weapon: H&K VP9 and GLOCK 17

    Now, I'm not trying to start a debate between the two companies or flare up any Glock Love here... what I'm really interested in is "trigger mechanics"...

    I assume "Trigger Travel" is the amount of total distance a trigger travels from extended to fully compressed. I also assume this is primarily dependent upon the spring within. ( including over-travel, not just break point).

    I also assume that "Trigger Return" is the amount of total distance a trigger travels from fully compressed, back to fully extended. Now this is confusing to me because from what I've read in specs, this number is not usually the same as the "trigger travel"... So if someone could properly clarify what this "exactly" is, and why it's different than "Trigger Travel".

    So in regards to the above assumption, does this mean that some triggers can "return" to just prior to the breakpoint after the first shot, instead of full expansion?

    Depending on the answer/s \ comments on these statements will kind of guide my next question... but essentially it is this...

    Between the two guns I'm feeling secure in purchasing, which would be the better choice for trigger modifications (including shoes, weight, travel, return, crisp/rolling) AND... are these modifications easier/harder/the same between striker-fire and traditional hammer/pin firearms?


    *Phew* thanks for hanging in there for all that!

  2. #2
    I am a Forum User
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    holly
    Posts
    7,969
    You have the right idea about "travel"

    When you say "return" I think the term you are looking for is "reset"...reset as most people use it is the point where the sear resets on the striker and is shorter than the overall travel...take the slack out of the trigger and that is approximately the reset point.

  3. #3
    MGO Member Forum User
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Flint, Michigan
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by wsr View Post
    You have the right idea about "travel"

    When you say "return" I think the term you are looking for is "reset"...reset as most people use it is the point where the sear resets on the striker and is shorter than the overall travel...take the slack out of the trigger and that is approximately the reset point.

    Ahh, thank you for the clarification! So, with this in mind... How does trigger "reset" affect performance, specifically under extreme pressure situations?

    From what I can see/understand... specifically in striker-fire application... The trigger is pulled, which in turn pushes the firing-pin block up/out of the way, while the trigger bar pulls the firing-pin back, compressing the spring. When the trigger reaches "breaking point", the firing lug (is this correct?) releases the spring, firing the pin forward as the spring relaxes. Then the slide comes back (skip barrel and magazine mechanics here), and upon return, a catch within the slide (Don't know the name of this part) grabs the trigger bar and pushes it back into starting position while the firing pin block is also dropped back into place.

    1: Is this all correct?
    2: How does Trigger Reset and the Sear affect these mechanics?

  4. #4
    I am a Forum User
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    holly
    Posts
    7,969
    It's not all correct but close enough for a general understanding

    Some stiker guns (vp9) are precocked so pulling the trigger only releases the stiker instead of cocking and releasing it

    The firing pin block will stay raised as long as the trigger is held to the rear or only let out to reset, the slack or take up is when the firing pin block is moved

  5. #5
    I am a Forum User
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Oakland County
    Posts
    188
    Your ultimate question is which trigger is easier to work on and that's easy: the Glock. Far more aftermarket support, more than there needs to be.

    However, I don't recommend you alter the trigger at all. Not because you'll immediately have a flock of lawyers swooping down on you as many suggest. But rather that a nice trigger can make you into a bad shooter. Many 1911 folks pick up a DAO, TDA or striker and can't shoot like they do with the 1911. Because the light crisp trigger is a crutch. You are much better served keeping the stock trigger and using it well. Then when your shooting skills develop enough to get the extra mile out of a trigger job, do it then. By then you probably won't want to.

  6. #6
    MGO Member Forum User
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Flint, Michigan
    Posts
    60

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by BuddyChryst View Post
    Your ultimate question is which trigger is easier to work on and that's easy: the Glock. Far more aftermarket support, more than there needs to be.

    However, I don't recommend you alter the trigger at all. Not because you'll immediately have a flock of lawyers swooping down on you as many suggest. But rather that a nice trigger can make you into a bad shooter. Many 1911 folks pick up a DAO, TDA or striker and can't shoot like they do with the 1911. Because the light crisp trigger is a crutch. You are much better served keeping the stock trigger and using it well. Then when your shooting skills develop enough to get the extra mile out of a trigger job, do it then. By then you probably won't want to.
    Quote Originally Posted by wsr
    It's not all correct but close enough for a general understanding

    Some stiker guns (vp9) are precocked so pulling the trigger only releases the stiker instead of cocking and releasing it

    The firing pin block will stay raised as long as the trigger is held to the rear or only let out to reset, the slack or take up is when the firing pin block is moved
    Thank you both for your input. I guess my inclination for "box-to-mod" on either of these guns is my poor trigger experience with my Walthers, which to me, feel like trying to crush an apple in the trigger. From the sounds of it, from both this forum and outside sources, I should just get range time in and learn to work what is in my hands, or purchase a gun that feels good "out of the box".

    I'll give a post on whatever I end up rollin' with. Thanks!

  7. #7
    MGO Member AxlMyk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Hartland
    Posts
    1,865
    This will help you understand how a Glock works. Great video.
    https://youtu.be/yRJI3QpJGw8
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a sleeping pill and laxative on the same night.

  8. #8
    MGO Member Forum User
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Flint, Michigan
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by AxlMyk View Post
    This will help you understand how a Glock works. Great video.
    https://youtu.be/yRJI3QpJGw8
    Thanks! This video and a few others helped me confidently detail strip and polish the OEM trigger components, and successfully reassemble.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
only search Michigan Gun Owners Forums
MGO's Facebook MGO's Twitter