Tell me what is different about the 17 that would make you break brushes
Tell me what is different about the 17 that would make you break brushes
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You need to get a thinner than standard rod to fit the 17 and it's pretty rough getting it in usually. The metal on the brush is really thin and it bends under pressure with the slightest off-center push. You end up twisting it or bending it in half 5 times outta 10.
So you'll need to buy a separate 17 rod and brush anyways...might as well just buy the bore snake.
If you get a proper size rod and brush / swab jag, and use them correctly, you won't have any issues. It just takes a little more care and finesse than say a 30 caliber rod. I use both a straight rod and a bore snake on my 17WSM and HMR. A bore snake obviously negates being able to drag a patch down the chute.
A bore guide and good rod, plus a bit of care and I have never had any problem with cleaning my 17's. A new bore snake however won't thread down the small 17 bore of my two 17s without a ton of cussing until it is near worn out. The small weights they use is not enough in my experience to drag the cord down to the end of the barrel where you can grab it. I use them on shotguns, and in my larger 6.5+ caliber rifles for field cleaning where proper tools are a pain to carry, but tossed the 17 cal soon after I got it.
When using a snake care must be taken too to prevent dragging the dirty cord against the crown of the barrel. A used gritty cord is just another name for "file" when you do this. Keep your hand close to the barrel and go slow so you have good control of the cord and remember always clean from the breach if possible.
BTW I don't do much if any brushing of any bore that hasn't been shooting lead bullets. Even then I just run one down them just a time or two to score the fouling so the solvent can do its job. A little "Wipe Out" or "Montana Extreme" on a patch, and no brushing is necessary to clean any bore that has been shooting jacketed ammo.
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Having no experience with 17 HMR except for what I've read, I appreciate the info. I think I will get a smaller rod/ kit for the 17 & see how it goes. I usually run the brush through my guns once just to break up any fouling. Shoot jacketed ammo most of the time. Patches are most important to me for finish cleaning & lubrication of the bore.
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Devil Dog,
I had a misalignment issue with the base and bore on my Ruger American rifle. I solved the problem by purchasing a set of Burris Signature Zee rings. They have off-set inserts to get you back in alignment. Also the inserts can be used to cant the front of your scope down and the rear up to shoot long distances while useing the flat factory rail. Be advised though, they are not cheap.
I have a few sets of rings that I can try to at least get an idea what height I need to be. The stock I want has an adjustable comb & LOP. Will probably want to get it all together before deciding on the rings. But from past experience, I would say I would need a LOW ring. Had a 3-9 on a Remington 742 with see through rings for the iron sights. Could never get comfortable shooting with that setup.
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