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Thread: Shimming scope?

  1. #21
    MGO Member JDG's Avatar
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    Nice looking rig! Is the scope touching the rail in the center? How do you read the turret?
    Active airport shooter

  2. #22
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    Okay, now we're gettin somewhere.

    It appears you have a Ruger American Rifle- Ranch, W. L. BAUMLER DISTRIBUTOR EXCLUSIVE model
    https://ruger.com/products/americanR...ch/models.html

    It further, appears the base is a 0MOA cant base. That wouldn't really be an issue IF your rifle zeroed near the center of the elevation range... that is not however, how it always goes.


    Your scope, a leupold VX2 3-9x40, should have 52 MOA of elevation in it; that means, from very bottom to very top, the reticle will adjust 52moa (208 "clicks").

    Your ammunition, would take approx 8moa to get to 260 yards on a 100 yard zero. You can check the accuracy of your turret by counting the clicks as it is currently set-up to get from your 100 yard zero to 260 yards. Your scope adjusts 1/4moa per click, so you should see somewhere around 32 clicks... plus or minus a couple. If it's significantly different, then your turret was printed improperly.

    Honestly, I'd say your rings and base are both suspect. Especially the rings. They don't look too solid. I'm also not a fan of how the scope was mounted with the rings on the extreme spread of the tube. Also, is the turret block (center of scope where the knobs are), touching the base? Is the scope touching the barrel, or just a human hair diameter away from it?

    Were this my rifle, I'd prob go ahead and replace the base with an EGW 20moa base:
    http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts-...-ambidextrous/

    Then toss on some Burris Extreme Tactical rings (short would prob work, but medium would be your safe bet; your objective bell looks way too close to the barrel for comfort- same as the turret block.):
    https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/37...xoCr_0QAvD_BwE


    Then start over again zeroing at 100. And don't take it back to the same guy who mounted it in the first place; anyone who would place those rings at such an extreme spread, then advise shimming, is not someone I'd want screwing around with my stuff.

  3. #23
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    I want to stress that it appears you have to issues to be concerned over
    1) The scope bottoming out at 260 yards.
    2) Having the adjustment print about 6-8" high at 160 yards.


    These could be correlated, but you have to "attack" one issue at a time. I suggest going for the mounting issue first, as it's typically the root of all problems. Scopes certainly do fail, some are well known for having issues. But more often than not, improper mounting, or poor quality rings/base are the culprit. You have two screw rings; I wouldn't put two screw rings on a rimfire. Let alone a .450 bushmaster. Sure, it's not a .338 win mag, but it's still got some good thump behind it. You want solid rings that apply an even and consistent pressure to the scope tube. Two screw rings just do not give you that. These are some of the cheapest rings on the market... again, in my opinion, not really even fit for a rimfire.

    The base; it's an unknown quality. If you're getting new rings, you might as well replace the base with a known quality unit. EGW is not at all top of the line, and the price reflects that, but it is a quality unit, that offers very high value for your dollar. It's a reliable product.

    So, you get your mounting ironed out, then go from there.

    If you still end up with a 6-8" discrepancy over 60 yards, then it's time to call leupold. They have known tracking and return to zero issues on the Mk4 line, so it wouldn't be exactly surprising to see similar issues in their products cost 1/5 as much. But again... mounting is the root of the issue, 90% of the time.



    If you're even remotely handy, I'd suggest you watching a few youtube videos on scope mounting, and give it a try yourself. You can prob pick up a cheap, adjustable in-lb torque wrench for $20-$30 on amazon, some blue loctite from autozone for $5, and you likely have a couple levels of varying sizes sitting around. It would be worth your time to do it yourself after some careful research. The upside is, you'll get the eye-relief properly set for you, and won't be stuck with whatever crap Randy's gave you by running the rings at max spread.
    Last edited by DP425; 01-18-2018 at 09:47 PM.

  4. #24
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    Thank you a ton for all this information. The rail and rings aren't as much money as I thought they might be. The scope looks like it's touching the base but there's easily .125"+ clearance. I think I'll order the new rail and rings and MZ the scope myself to start off, and then start back at square 1 targeting it in. Might be a couple weeks before I get to it, but I'll make it a point to update this post once I do. Thanks!

  5. #25
    MGO Member JDG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DP425 View Post
    And don't take it back to the same guy who mounted it in the first place; anyone who would place those rings at such an extreme spread, then advise shimming, is not someone I'd want screwing around with my stuff.
    I agree on the shimming part for sure, but the rings being spread far apart is the strongest way to do it. In this case however, the OP has no eye relieve adjustment at all, and I wonder if the shop just winged it.
    Active airport shooter

  6. #26
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    If you do a range trip between now and your parts showing up, I'd probably count clicks to get to Mechanical Zero, then strip the bolt and take a looksie down range (50 or 100 yards) and see where your reticle currently is. Get a shot or two on paper at 50 if you start there, then reach out to 100.

    Good view going over the basic principal
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMG6pSHOhPc

    (I recommend Jameson while viewing)

    Ryan does an excellent job as well.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDrrJA14wtg&t
    Last edited by Quads; 01-18-2018 at 09:40 PM.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDG View Post
    I agree on the shimming part for sure, but the rings being spread far apart is the strongest way to do it. In this case however, the OP has no eye relieve adjustment at all, and I wonder if the shop just winged it.
    IMO, the rear ring is a bit too close to the power ring for comfort. Though, I don't think anyone will find any specific information on where the "best" place for the rings are; the most important issue is that they are not over-tightened, or installed on a severely warped/bent base... But, as you said, the larger issue at play (that we can see), is that by spreading the rings to the ends of the base, the rifle's owner has no option to move the scope fore and aft, to set proper eye relief. That is a very rookie mistake, and the shim suggestion is a total hack move. Added together, this shop shouldn't be mounting scopes.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by foste1cc View Post
    Thank you a ton for all this information. The rail and rings aren't as much money as I thought they might be. The scope looks like it's touching the base but there's easily .125"+ clearance. I think I'll order the new rail and rings and MZ the scope myself to start off, and then start back at square 1 targeting it in. Might be a couple weeks before I get to it, but I'll make it a point to update this post once I do. Thanks!
    You can easily drop $400-$800 on a base and rings... But, that's not really called for in your application. In that lower price range that we're looking at, a $20 jump in price nets you a remarkable jump in quality.

    Please do keep us posted. I'm in Lansing, so not really well located to assist, but if you need a hand and want to drive, I can help. Or, I'm sure you'd easily find someone experienced in scope mounting to help you near by.

  9. #29
    MGO Member JDG's Avatar
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    Here's an easy test you should try before condemning your scope. Hang a tall white target at 100 yards, draw a vertical line on it with a level, put a bull on it near the bottom of the target on the vertical line. With the target set up, now shoot at the bull with your 100 yard zero, and keep your vertical crosshair on the line you made(make sure during the test you always aim at the bull) Give your turret 1 complete turn and shoot, 1 complete turn and shoot, repeat this until you run out of elevation. If you have a good scope, your bullet impacts will be equal distances apart, and they will measure out at the value of your turret. Example 12" or 15", depending on your click value for 1 turn. If you kept your vertical crosshair on the vertical line of the target, your impacts should walk straight up the line. You will also know your total elevation available from your 100 yard zero with this test, to see if you actually need a tapered base.
    Last edited by JDG; 01-21-2018 at 07:43 AM.
    Active airport shooter

  10. #30
    MGO Member OTG1958's Avatar
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    I had virtually the same problem with my Ruger American/Leupold setup. I was convinced it was a scope issue so I took it back to my dealer for an exchange...exact same problem. Initially cured it by shimming, but was unsatisfied with the result. Ultimately, I purchased a 20 MOA mount to replace the factory rail. Much better solution IMO. I’ve got full adjustment from 100-400 yards now. Easy fix, highly recommended over shimming. Amazon link to the new rail I used below. Good Luck.

    Ruger American Short Action Scope Mount 20 MOA

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G97XGXK..._JPizAbTHB7R6A

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