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  1. #1
    I can't post links yet! Forum User
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    just built my first ar15 (first gun)

    so i waited for a bunch of psa parts to go on sale and i built a mid-length ar with a mlok rail and ss barrel, now i want to play pimp my gun but dont know what to get any ideas?

  2. #2
    I am a Forum User
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    Congrats! If it's your first gun, you should get a decent set of irons and an optic that fits your budget and works well for what you plan on doing with it. Get familiar with the rifle and it's operation before you start slapping extra parts on. My suggestion would be the items already mentioned along with a good sling and spare mags and ammo. You may find that you want it how it is now and can always change it up later down the road.

  3. #3
    I am a Forum User
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    I'm with emuscott. Learn the firearm the way it is first. Then when you upgrade (trigger, optic, stock, handguard, etc.), you'll physically feel the difference, be it good or bad.
    What's your shooting plans with this?

  4. #4
    MGO Member Moleman-'s Avatar
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    My FIL and BIL both have PSA 16" mid length kits and like them. Shoot it, and try to shoot guns with the same or similar parts that you're wanting to get. You might find out you really hate something that looks neat and that way you won't get stuck with it.

  5. #5
    I am a Forum User
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    Oh forget that "shoot it first stuff"! That's no fun...!

    Do some research on different parts and then take a stab at the ones you think you'll like.

    I've built a few AR's so far and here are my thoughts:

    Forearm/handguard: The handguard you have sounds fine. Get a longer rail (4"-6") for underneath the front part of the forearm to allow you to attach a foregrip or QD bipod (not together usually, one or the other). One shorter rail (2"-3") for light attachment on the side of the forearms (10:30 or 1:30 position).

    Trigger: Personally (because I'm an old school match shooter), forget ANY "Mil-Spec" trigger group parts (even the ones that have been "polished/tuned"). Also, I personally feel the upper-end match grade Geissele's are not worth the big $$ either (but they ARE good triggers generally). To me, the best bang for the buck in AR triggers is a Rock River 2-stage Match ones (Again, being a match guy, I also like 2-stage type like these are instead of single). These can be found on sale for $80-$90 delivered. The CMC (Chip McCormick) "drop in" one piece units are nice and completely idiot proof too (one piece drop in, fully assembled unit). Again, the 2-stage variety in these, with a final pull weight in the 3-4# range. Sale prices on these is about $150-$160.

    Grip: I like the ones that tend to be a bit more "vertical" than the mil-spec grip angle. (straighter up-down, not swept back so much like the standard M-16 one). The Magpul K2/K2+ is pretty nice(+ has a rubberized coating). Or, the Stark One grip is REALLY cool/comfortable (and more vertical like the K2, but a bit harder to find at times). The Stark is also available with a single-point QD sling socket built into the top of the grip too if you want it that way (right below the stock's castle nut).

    Foregrip: Hands down (for me anyway), Stark also makes THE best foregrip for the AR's. They call it the Express Grip. Their foregrip has some "meat" to it, a small storage compartment inside the foregrip, a bit more drop which sometimes makes it able to be used as a shooting rest when firing from prone (semi-supported), or when out of a window, or over the hood of a vehicle. But, the BEST part about this grip is that the angle of it duplicates the feel of the weak hand in a two handed grip on your handgun. So, then you do weapon changes (rifle to pistol and visa-versa), your weak hand is in nearly the same exact configuration and angle for both the AR and pistol, but for the rifle, one is out in front of the other is all. I REALLY like these (obviously).
    Here the Stark webpage which shows all of the above: https://www.starkequipment.com/stark-grips.html

    Stocks: I've tried a bunch of different ones from Magpul, CAA, cheapie mil-spec collapsible M4-carbine ones, to Vietnam era A1 fixed length. Personally, while a telescoping stock is nice for fitting the gun into a slightly smaller transport bag or even a more "stealthy" bag like a baseball bat bag or tennis racket bag. Really, if you need to do a "mortaring" type of jamb clearing (like for an over-bolt type of jamb), ALL the collapsible ones have the risk of breaking the locking pin and if that happens, you'll be stuck firing the weapon in the shortest fully collapsed position. Honestly I LIKE the old Mil-Spec A1 fixed length stocks, but those are getting harder to find anymore and DON'T buy the repo A1's which are now available; too thin, too "weak/cheap". The newer A2 is a much longer/rifle length stock (that I wouldn't recommend). The last couple builds I've done, I've used the Magpul Carbine length "fixed" stock and they are nice, light weight and yet strong, and I find that they are about the same length fixed as where I would normally position my telescoping ones to make them ready to fire anyway (which I usually only the 2nd or 3rd notch from the shortest/"in" one on a 6-position carbine buffer tube). These also have a spot for a QD sling socket.
    https://www.magpul.com/products/moe-...stock-mil-spec

    Sling: 2 point, QD swivels Blue Force Vickers Combat design straight sling.
    Adjusts super easy. One handed length adjustment, even when the rifle is shouldered. Just get the straight one (not the wider/padded one) usually @$40 on sale.

    For the flash suppressor. the Noveske Flaming pig is pretty nice, but WAY expensive. The Levang Linear Compensator from DPMS does what the Pig does, but with a bit more refinement for way less $$$. KAK Industries makes a near duplicate of the flaming pig for @ 1/10th the cost of the Noveske. All of these protect your ears and still do a decent job of a flashhider.

    Magpul MBUS or Diamondhead back up sights should work just fine.

    How much $$$ do you have left for optics?
    LoL...

    Of course, YMMV...

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