Gun safe plans

[moosefire66]

Ok, below are rough draft photos of the gun "safe" I'm thinking on building. The exterior will be skinned, not sure how thick of material yet though. Thinking of 2 inch square tube, thickness again unknown. The top, bottom left and right frames will all be the same sizes, some parts having riv nuts put in so it can be bolted into place. I'm keeping this a "bolt" together kit as I need it to be easy to put in the basement by myself, as well as to take apart to move in the future.

The doors are going to be simple frames skinned with steel. I'll figure out the latching and locking mechanism down the road though.

The interior I plan on welding small tabs on the inside section of the 2 inch tube to hold 3/4 cabinet grade plywood.

I'm wondering if you guys see a problem with my plans, and thoughts on steel thicknesses. The rivnuts I found online says the material can't be more than either .100 or .120 wall, I can't recall off hand. So I was thinking of maybe just getting .083 wall...?

Let me know what you think. I've posted this on another forum without much help, I'm hoping you guys might have some feedback, specifically on metal thickness and the riv nut idea...

Thanks guys

- Moose

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[DEVIL DOG]

Keep in mind, given enough time & tools, NOTHING will stop them from getting your stuff. Best you can hope for is to slow them down. Get the best insurance policy you can. Secure your firearms & related stuff so unwanted folks can't get their hands on them. ( Kids & the Wife ! )

Building your own safe sounds like a fun idea though.

[moosefire66]

Thanks devil dog, I kind of figured that building the next fort Knox isn't very likely, but given how easy it is to break into a safe, I don't think I can do much worse than commercial safes in terms of breaking into it. I'm mostly just locking them up away from the hands of kids is my main goal, plus it gives me something new and fun to do

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[10x25mm]

You will need to fasten the front and rear frames to the side frames directly, rather than rely on just fixation to the top and bottom, to prevent trapezoidal movement (and possible collapse).

0.083 inch (2mm) thick sheet steel is difficult to weld by SMA (stick) and GMA (MIG). Really good SMA and GMA welders generally hesitate to seam weld sheet steel thinner than 0.125 inch (3mm) thick. You will have to GTA (TIG) weld your closure panels on the frames or rivetbond them. If your frames were made from angle iron, you could resistance (spot) weld the closure panels to the frames.

Normal fab shop practice would be to shear the closure panels first, then build the frames on each closure panel by clamping and then tack welding. This minimizes out of plane distortion in the assemblies incurred during further welding.

[DEVIL DOG]

Whatever you decide, please keep us up to date on the process / progress.

[moosefire66]

You will need to fasten the front and rear frames to the side frames directly, rather than rely on just fixation to the top and bottom, to prevent trapezoidal movement (and possible collapse).

0.083 inch (2mm) thick sheet steel is difficult to weld by SMA (stick) and GMA (MIG). Really good SMA and GMA welders generally hesitate to seam weld sheet steel thinner than 0.125 inch (3mm) thick. You will have to GTA (TIG) weld your closure panels on the frames or rivetbond them. If your frames were made from angle iron, you could resistance (spot) weld the closure panels to the frames.

Normal fab shop practice would be to shear the closure panels first, then build the frames on each closure panel by clamping and then tack welding. This minimizes out of plane distortion in the assemblies incurred during further welding.

It's not in the drawing but the face frame and rear frame are going to be the same size as the rest of the bolted frame (top, bottom, left and right) this way it can be rib nutted and bolted all the way around from the inside of the safe.

I was debating on taking the sheet material, after the frame is built and bolted together (so I know 100% the sizing). The top/bottom/left/right I'm thinking the sheet steel will be larger than the frames, so as to also cover the front and rear face frames all around. Then skin the front and back and the doors, if that makes any sense. Below is a pic of the over hang I'm talking about, only it'll be a full sheet instead of a small piece.....

Do you think that would be alright?

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[10x25mm]

Can you plug weld a piece of 1 - 1.5 inch leg angle iron to the outside of the 2x2 inch tubing to create a crevice for the flanges created by the oversized sheet steel? The apex of the angle iron would ride the outside corner of the tubing, with the legs parallel with the outer sides of the tubing. It would frustrate pry bar attacks and provide a more finished appearance.

[dirtmcgirt76239]

You will need to fasten the front and rear frames to the side frames directly, rather than rely on just fixation to the top and bottom, to prevent trapezoidal movement (and possible collapse).

0.083 inch (2mm) thick sheet steel is difficult to weld by SMA (stick) and GMA (MIG). Really good SMA and GMA welders generally hesitate to seam weld sheet steel thinner than 0.125 inch (3mm) thick. You will have to GTA (TIG) weld your closure panels on the frames or rivetbond them. If your frames were made from angle iron, you could resistance (spot) weld the closure panels to the frames.

Normal fab shop practice would be to shear the closure panels first, then build the frames on each closure panel by clamping and then tack welding. This minimizes out of plane distortion in the assemblies incurred during further welding.

What about a couple diagonal tubes and just drilling self tapers into it to prevent it from racking ?

[dirtmcgirt76239]

it seems cool, I like the idea of making one in a particular spot to maximize space there, make it flush to existing wall, for a custom built in look.

If not for that, or access to cheap material, I would just like up 2 or 3 safes from craigslist or clearance at the big box store.

[10x25mm]

What about a couple diagonal tubes and just drilling self tapers into it to prevent it from racking ?

Diagonal struts would work, but require end mitering. Stressed skin and positive attachment of the vertical interfaces should work equally well.