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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarguy View Post
    Lower cost fire rated safes typically use gypsum to achieve their modest fire resistance rating. A rule of thumb I have seen is each layer of drywall adds about 15 minutes to the fire rating.

    Higher end safes use more exotic materials like kaowool, a ceramic insulation designed to resist high heat. Kaowool is not that expensive on ebay:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Fib...item3ac111d458

    One approach is to buy a safe "one size larger" and add a layer of kaowool and a layer of drywall or plywood, then cheap carpet to make it look factory.

    Wondering if rather than adding layers to the inside, would it make more sense to add layers to the outside? Build a box around the safe, line it with the ceramic wool then cover the outside with a layer or two of gypsum. Seems like it would make more sense to slow the steel from heating rather than let it heat and THEN try to slow it from transferring to the inside.

  2. #12
    I would think unless you are building a fire resistant room for the safe the weakest point is still going to be the seal around the door.
    If that fails the firearms are damaged,
    I have seen guns that have been in safes when the house burned, pretty much junk.
    [QUOTE]["Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." Benjamin Franklin/QUOTE]

  3. #13
    I would think its not cost effective to come up with a working suppression system for your home. I suppose it depends on the area you live? What their FD looks like as well as water supply. Typically security goes up when fire rating goes up also. I think it would be better to save the extra money up. I dont think you need to go crazy, but 45min seems more than reasonable if you have a good local FD.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by schwartzint1 View Post
    I would think its not cost effective to come up with a working suppression system for your home. I suppose it depends on the area you live? What their FD looks like as well as water supply. Typically security goes up when fire rating goes up also. I think it would be better to save the extra money up. I dont think you need to go crazy, but 45min seems more than reasonable if you have a good local FD.
    There are multiple stations within 3-3.5 miles, with the closest being 1.3. I would think that the response is pretty good at that point. I suppose I have a tendency to over think things. Most of the safes I'm looking at have 60 min rating. I guess the bigger issue in the event of the fire is the water that will be sitting in the basement after the smoke clears. I'm not sure there really is a way to handle that, other than putting the safe somewhere other than the basement (which is not an option).

  5. #15
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    without revealing your identity, find out what the FD would do if they show up at a fire and find out guns, ammunition, powder, etc are in the structure.
    some will back off and let it burn.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by cmr19xx View Post
    This is just my uneducated opinion so take it for what its worth, but I would think water could cause just as much damage as fire depending on what firearms are in the safe.
    yeah if its a big fire its going to be a total loss I think, the basement will be full of water and no one will dig them out for a long time.

    It does not take much of a fire for everything in the house to be written off as a total loss by the insurance company.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyharry View Post
    Wondering if rather than adding layers to the inside, would it make more sense to add layers to the outside? Build a box around the safe, line it with the ceramic wool then cover the outside with a layer or two of gypsum. Seems like it would make more sense to slow the steel from heating rather than let it heat and THEN try to slow it from transferring to the inside.
    Steel is not a great heat conductor. Most house fires are over, one way or another, in under 30 minutes. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/w...ens-house-fire
    Technically, you are correct though. And don't forget a good seal on the door. The ceramic rope that is used to seal woodstove doors would work. It takes a lot to survive a house fire.

  8. #18
    I think you have the answer. Water is more of an issue than fire. 60min should be good. Not getting a ton of heat under it on a concrete slab. Many companies put some type of weatherstrip that expands when heated in fire conditions in an attempt to keep water out. However I dont have real world knowledge on how well it works.

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