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Firearms Legal Protection

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Thread: GUN OIL

  1. #21
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    I used to believe that the expensive gun oils were a waste of $.. like many here,
    I was a Hoppes #9 guy, for many years.
    I tried some REM OIl.. it was OK..

    Over the years, have tried a variety of solutions,some cleaners, some lubes, (some advertised to do both) can't even remember the names..

    Made a batch of Ed's Red & used that for awhile..still use it on occasion.

    I tried a small bottle of Gunzilla..not sure how well it lubes &/ or protects,
    but if you clean a barrel with your usual cleaner,(until clean) &
    THEN run a patch of Gunzilla through the bore, you may be surprised how the patch looks, after it goes thru your clean barrel.

    Have been using Superlube , a teflon grease, on my frames & slides, & liked it as a lube, but my 1# tub is almost gone..
    couldn't find the same tub for sale anywhere.

    My Gunsmith gave me some extra samples of FP-10 he had on hand.. I tried it, & couldn't believe how slippery this stuff is...
    a very small amount & my 1911 slides /slide better than ever before. Amazing stuff..

  2. #22
    MGO Member michaelm_ski's Avatar
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    So far my froglube wipes have worked great for me on my 1911 I leave a light film on it and it hasn't gummed up in the cold or anything so if it continues to be good I will stick with it .

  3. #23
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    Mobil 1...if it works inside your engine with those pressures and heat,it will certainly work on your firearm...used it for years

  4. #24
    MGO Member Ol` Joe's Avatar
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    I said it before and still stand by it, just about any oil will work as long as you keep the gun clean and oiled. The key words are clean and oiled. This doesn't mean running a bore snake down the tube and adding a drop of oil to the present slurry on your slide and rails. At least field strip and fully clean everything well at least on a semblance of a regular schedule.

    If I used any automotive oils on my guns it would probably be a trans fluid not a motor oil JMO.

    Personally I prefer to use dedicated products on my firearms. You don't use auto trans fluid in your motorcycle gear box, or outboard lower unit lube on your cars rear end do you?
    I have used Weapon Shield ever since it came out and I got ahold of free sample. It lubes very well from the feel of the gun and is a CLP if it matters. It is a heavier oil then a lot of gun oils and seems to stay in place on semi auto rails and slides and evaporates slower then some other oils. I buy it by the quart for admittedly about double the price of a quart of Mobil 1. For as long as a quart lasts me I can afford it .
    Prior to Weapon Shield I used military CLP or FP-10 mostly, with a little Hoppes, Outers, 3/1 tossed in and never had a issue with function or wear that was lube related on any of my guns to be honest.

    For cleaning, a little wiping with a CLP does a nice temporary job on the range, but once home I use WipeOut, Butches, or if leading is present Shooters Choice lead remover depending on what is present in my bore. CLP's do not clean bores well period! Hoppes, Outers, etc. cleaners such as come in the nice little kits remove carbon OK, but do nothing for metallic fouling.

    Oil doesn't do the best on rust protection either IMHO, they are not really designed as rust preventatives and evaporate over time. I especially like RIG if storing or leaving a gun in a damp environment. A good paste wax like Renaissance Wax would be a excellent choice too and, much better then a wipe down with oil, or especially anything containing silicone. Silicone has a bad habit of penetrating into wood surfaces and if your stock is wood it makes any future job of touch-up or refinishing almost impossible. Oil finishes won't penetrate and, poly or varnish type finishes will not adhere to silicone. - Just a side thought..

    Some things on guns need grease. I was told to use Shooters Choice synthetic red grease in the syringe applicator on bolt lugs and cylinder pawls years ago by a gunsmith I respected. It beats the crap out of the old Gunslick graphite grease my dad used, both in effectiveness and especially cleanliness. Here again the type probably does not matter as long as you use something. Locking lugs do gall if dry and under stress, a pinhead of grease on each goes a long way to keeping the bolt running smooth.

    "Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt".

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by michaelm_ski View Post
    I bought one of the little bottles of Lucas gun oil and am going to try it on my new Kimber , has anyone else used it ?
    I used Lucas gun oil this past USPSA season and it was alright. It does its job but has some issues. The problems I found with it were, it quickly evaporates when you run the gun hard , and it seems to evaporate when you leave your gun in the safe for a couple weeks . I would clean one of my competition guns, lube it with Lucas and put it away for some time. When I would pull the gun out, it looked like I never even lubed it.

    Based on a recommendation from my gunsmith, I have now switch to a combination of grease and gun oil. For grease, I use slide glide. For lube, I use Cudalube. It is made by a guy who works for Hendrick Motor Sports. I have had great results with this and is now my go to on all my firearms

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evansky2 View Post
    I used Lucas gun oil this past USPSA season and it was alright. It does its job but has some issues. The problems I found with it were, it quickly evaporates when you run the gun hard , and it seems to evaporate when you leave your gun in the safe for a couple weeks . I would clean one of my competition guns, lube it with Lucas and put it away for some time. When I would pull the gun out, it looked like I never even lubed it.

    Based on a recommendation from my gunsmith, I have now switch to a combination of grease and gun oil. For grease, I use slide glide. For lube, I use Cudalube. It is made by a guy who works for Hendrick Motor Sports. I have had great results with this and is now my go to on all my firearms
    The Lucas oil was evaporating off the surfaces of your guns due to its vapor pressure. Typical mineral oils have vapor pressures akin to that of water, around 2.5 kPa at room temperature under atmospheric pressure and in normal humidity. Mineral oils all evaporate off metal surfaces at about the same rate, regardless of how thin or viscous they are. The PAO synthetics (e.g. Mobil 1) have a vapor pressure about 10% of that of the mineral oils, so they take ten times longer to evaporate off metal surfaces. They still evaporate off metal surfaces, it just takes ten times longer. The PAG compressor oils have half the vapor pressure of the PAO synthetics, so they linger twice as long.

    You new mix is evaporating its light constituent(s) at the same rate as its light constituent(s) alone, so your new mix's composition is constantly changing. You just don't notice it. This is Raoult's law in action.

    A grease is an oil dissolved in a soap, so you have at least two light constituents in your mix. Which one is evaporating more? You just don't know. But you do know that its composition - and thus its properties - are constantly changing. Shoot your competition pistol after a winter's storage without reoiling it and the lubrication will be much different.

    The only oils with extremely low vapor pressures are vacuum pump oils. Vacuum pump greases are also available. Most are silicone based, but a few are narrow cut mineral oils treated with special additives. You would be better served to use vacuum pump rated lubricants if long term stability and retention is important to you.

  7. #27
    MGO Member Tom S.'s Avatar
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    I use oil that is produced in a monastery in Tibet from Yeti fat, rendered down in a process that takes 6 months. It is then filtered through special 1 micron Hepa filters and aged for 10 years in casks made of teak and ebony. It is very expensive but you only need to apply it one time. It penetrates the metal and cannot be removed even by power washing or scrubbing with steel wool. It repels dust, dirt and moisture and reduces group sizes by a minimum of 50%. If you ask nice, I'll sell you a bottle for only $20.

  8. #28
    MGO Member Ol` Joe's Avatar
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    https://www.cherrybalmz.com/history-sperm-whale-oil

    "Sperm Whale oil holds a revered, legendary status in the minds of many shooters, especially older gunsmiths. And this is not without reason. It was incredibly durable, worked in a very wide range of temperatures, could go on thin, had a tendency to stay clean, didn't absorb water, and had a strong tendency to stay adhered to metallic surfaces it was placed on. It has reached a near mythical status in some circles today, which has only been reinforced by the 1972 whaling ban. Almost nobody under 50 years old has used it or even seen it, and what is heard about it from knowledgeable people is almost hard to believe, spoken of in often reverential tones. For these and other reasons, those few who have their irreplaceable, dwindling stocks of Sperm Whale oil tend to horde it with extreme prejudice."
    "Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt".

    The trouble with the Internet is that it's replacing masturbation as a leisure activity. ~Patrick Murray

  9. #29
    In Memoriam tenthumbs's Avatar
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    Very interesting read Joe. Thank you sir!

    A history of lubricants from whale oil to current high tech stuff.

    Fair warning though.. Budget about a half hour to read in it's entirety. Well worth the time IMO.

  10. #30
    MGO Member Revdrshad's Avatar
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    I stopped using Remoil years and years ago when I had some go rancid between the bolt carrier and buffer on my original Armalite AR. I will never use Remoil ever again.

    Since then I've used Shooters Choice to clean, and Shooters Choice syringe grease on pistols. And the small bottles of Lucas gun oil (Available at Autozone) for rifles. Unlike a few comments up, I've never had the Lucas evaporate.

    As a backup, If Shooters Choice isn't available, I've used the Hoppe's #9 (Which doesn't do anywhere near as good a job as Shooters Choice) And SuperLube Grease.

    Both Shooters Choice and SuperLube grease I've used in pretty harsh environments, and neither have failed me. (I prefer the Shooters Choice because it's red, and I can see it better.)

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