CZ gunsmith

[JimSig]

I would be interested to know this as well. I have a SP-01 that I have though about sending into CGW for years now.

If it is the tactical model and you want everything yes send it in to Cajun GW, you can work on it but it is a little tricky with the decocker models.

if it is a safety model and you want to do everything, it is a tie between sending it in to CGW or working on it your self.

If you just want to do the main spring, extended firing firing pin, reduced plunger spring, reduced firing pin spring and firing pin roll pi, then buy the parts and do it your self. This route is easy peasy to do it yourself and will give you 75% of the enhancement you would expect from a CZ with a firing pin block.

[bigmatt17073]

If you have some basic tools and mechanical skills, it's really not that difficult. There are many guides and videos to help along the way.


http://https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/191773-cz-tuning-101-with-professor-atlas/

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...p01+disassebly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYCtHQzrNG0

Mike

+1 with some mechanical ability and some patience they are not that bad. I’ve put a pro package plus in 6 of my own CZ’s. It isn’t that hard to do. I’m a glutton for punishment because three of those I hand fitted oversized disconnectors. One of those hand fitted ones was a decocker model.

[thedonn007]

+1 with some mechanical ability and some patience they are not that bad. I’ve put a pro package plus in 6 of my own CZ’s. It isn’t that hard to do. I’m a glutton for punishment because there of those I hand fitted oversized disconnectors. One of those hand fitted ones was a decocker model.

Damn, $426 for the pro package now.

Edit: Oh, I see that the parts alone are $301, $426 is for them to do the work. I think I would pay the extra $125, well plus the shipping.

[PeeDee]

The spring replacement is not difficult, but can be tricky with the mag brake, on the hammer spring. If it's going to be a range gun only, you can drop the hammer spring down for a great DA pull, which in turn lightens the SA a bit. The best way to shorten the reset, is to remove the block safety in the slide for the firing pin, and the lift arm from the sear cage. CZ USA does this in their custom shop pistols, but you have to sign a waiver. The pre-B, 85 combat, also come without the firing pin block system, and it's why the triggers are better in them. CZ sells a spacer to fill in the gap created when you remove the lift arm too.

Not that hard save for the risk of the springs flying all over the place (esp the weightless little spring that governs the FP block(?) in DA.

To prevent this, I used a heavy near-Visqueen-thick clear plastic bag in which new pillows come to insert the sear cage deeply into so the bag was almost like a sand blasting cabinet when you put your hands into the fixed 'gloves' to operate the blaster. in this 'case' you will be albow deep into the plastic bag and will save a lot of 'lost spring' possibilities.

The hardest part was to slide the sear cage pin in very little-by-little from L to R to install the springs one-by-one in proper sequence and then once all are in place, to use a dental pick to set the springs to tension in their several spots on the pin. (A piece of Q-tip cut to proper length works well as a slave pin for the sear cage pin, as I found CGW's steel slave pin did not grip inside the cage as well as the Q-tips diameter.)

It took a couple hours the first time because I learned you have to orient your hands and fingers in different positions for each operation (and your fingers will cramp too!) but you will discover which way to hold the parts and it will be easy the second time around. Tweezers help but not always.

Go slow and don't force anything - a 'jewelers' type magnifying lens that fits over your head on a headband is a great help and can be used for other 'gun jobs' too.

Compared to those who grieve over reassembling the Ruger MK II or III pistols, where you can 'feel' some of the internals 'fall' into place by orienting the gun itself muzzle-up in certain ways, the CZ decocker is like major surgery but it can be done if one is careful and pays attention. Pictures are available which are a great help and taking your own pictures from various angles prior to disassembly and printing them is a great aid as well, esp to see how the decocker spring is located.

(And when you get it all back together and it works, you will feel GREAT! )

[bigmatt17073]

Damn, $426 for the pro package now.

Edit: Oh, I see that the parts alone are $301, $426 is for them to do the work. I think I would pay the extra $125, well plus the shipping.

I don’t do the full pro package because the reach reduction doesn’t matter to me (and is not IDPA legal). I substitute an old style 85C trigger and a CGW Type 1 or 2 disconnector.

My upgrades have been incremental as well. So my costs were spread out over a length of time. I always start with a SRS-2, RP-TRS, and a TR-PIN and my first upgrades. The hammer, 85C trigger, and disco all get upgraded at a later time together.

[JDG]

Mine all get the CGW straight blade triggers, turned into SA guns. The DA reach is my biggest gripe with CZs, so I just eliminate it! The CGW trigger pin is also one of the best updates you can buy, as the factory pin is almost impossible to re-stake. I have only had a few P01s, and know for a fact I have not gone farther in then a hammer spring, but all my man safety models have come fully apart. One of my guns still has a CGW prototype adjustable sear in it, that he sent me to test before he put them on the market

[Nightshade1]

Jim sig, did you do the work yourself? Was it difficult?

I'll echo Jim's sentiment. It's a challenge the first couple times, but if you have the mechanical inclination to do your own car brakes it won't be a big issue. I had to detail strip a decocker B model for cerakoting. I did have to take it back apart to reorient a spring. Slave pins would help but I managed to do everything with the 3-punch set Oreilly's sells and the existing pins. The whole process will show you why CZ created the Omega line.