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  1. #1
    MGO Member UpNorthWOLF's Avatar
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    Any aluminum 80% Lower experience?

    Kid and I may do some project bonding.

  2. #2
    MGO Member
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    Maybe. What do you want to know?

  3. #3
    MGO Member UpNorthWOLF's Avatar
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    Are the jigs hard to use? Any jigs AND/or lowers better than others? Heck, any info is good info.

  4. #4
    MGO Member Moleman-'s Avatar
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    several, what tools do you have?

  5. #5
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    Using a router makes it extremely messy, aluminum chips everywhere!

  6. #6
    MGO Member UpNorthWOLF's Avatar
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    That's the thing, we are also pricing drill presses and better routers. Just say we have nothing and are starting from scratch...

  7. #7
    MGO Member
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    I've tried both, the router jig is the way to go. The drill press one is very tedious and time consuming. The router one takes just over an hour per lower. I put mine in a tall cardboard box to catch the chips, it kind of helped.

    This is probably the best jig out there, but not really cost effective to do just 1 or 2 lowers.
    https://www.5dtactical.com/ar-15-80-...p/5d-jig15.htm



    I think the one I bought was about $110, it worked fine.

  8. #8
    MGO Member
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    Well, most 80% lowers will either be 6061 or 7075 aluminum. Although 7075 has higher yield and tensile strength, 6061 is the most common, and usually costs less.
    Also, most 80% lowers will either be forged or pre-machined from a billet. People argue forged is stronger, but it doesn't really matter.
    Whether 6061 or 7075, or forged or billet, it's plenty strong. There exist 80% polymer lowers that seem to work fine.

    That said, they require three holes, the trigger and hammer pins I would ream so they are exact, the safety lever hole is .375.
    If using a CNC mill, I also use a 3/8 or 1/2" dia end mill for the pocket, and a long 1/4" end mill for the trigger slot.

    If using a jig, everyone says the 5D tactical is the best one. Whether you use a mill, jig, or drill press, there will be chips, some bigger than others, keep the shop vac handy.

  9. #9
    MGO Member UpNorthWOLF's Avatar
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    Thank you Blue XJ and j-squared.

  10. #10
    If you plan to do this more than once, then maybe buy a titanium jig(or at least the top piece). This will minimize how much you chew up the jig for future uses. You aren't using an actual mill so you likely won't have as much control, so plan on kissing the jig a tad.

    That said, I only use the top part of the jigs to trace onto the actual work with layout fluid(you could use a sharpie I suppose). I then use my traced outline to go off of, but I'm using a Bridgeport mill where I have a fair amount of control when I do this.

    Specs can be a bit loose and still work out. Just make sure your FCG pin holes are nice and straight and the rest can be a bit sloppy(like shelf depth).

    Keep a compressor with an air spray nozzle near by to clear chips from you work so you can see it.



    I suggest researching convential milling vs climb milling and learning about finishing cuts before diving in.
    Last edited by Cocowheats; 11-14-2018 at 09:35 AM.

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