ar 15 tools

[AleksanderSuave]

had a few tools on order (armorers wrench, upper vise and mag vise block) and the package is unfortunately MIA.. post office hasnt declared it lost yet so my replacement from the same company cant be shipped yet either.

looking at purchasing another set of tools now since I'd like to get this thing built before the end of the year (my last part gets delivered monday), considering picking it up locally and was looking at just grabbing the wheelers armorers essentials kit from cabelas.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/whee...eeler&slotId=1

am I good to go with something like this, or should I get the tools separately that I need on amazon prime instead?

[Moleman-]

I have several wrenches including that wheeler wrench and I don't like it. It only has two short pins to lock into the barrel nut and you run the risk of breaking or egging the holes on an aluminum nut with it. The upper vise block that comes with the lower vise block are worth getting and can be had for $25-$30. Figure out what barrel nut you're going to use as none of the wrenches do them all. Get whatever wrench is the best for your barrel nut and a torque wrench if you don't already have one. The roll pin starters are easy enough to make from a cut off bolt or scrap of rod.

[JohnJak]

I have all the tools you need. Let me know.

[tenthumbs]

I think DrScaryGuy has written about a gun shop/range that will allow you to use their bench and tools.

Maybe send him a PM before buying everything again. Murphy will probably deliver your first order as soon as you reorder.

[AleksanderSuave]

I think DrScaryGuy has written about a gun shop/range that will allow you to use their bench and tools.

Maybe send him a PM before buying everything again. Murphy will probably deliver your first order as soon as you reorder.

I think he has as well, I couldnt remember who it was, but I'll text him, thank you

[AleksanderSuave]

I have several wrenches including that wheeler wrench and I don't like it. It only has two short pins to lock into the barrel nut and you run the risk of breaking or egging the holes on an aluminum nut with it. The upper vise block that comes with the lower vise block are worth getting and can be had for $25-$30. Figure out what barrel nut you're going to use as none of the wrenches do them all. Get whatever wrench is the best for your barrel nut and a torque wrench if you don't already have one. The roll pin starters are easy enough to make from a cut off bolt or scrap of rod.

thanks for the advice. I do have a few decent torque wrenches already.

I also saw that cabelas sells the wheeler upper vise block clamp separately, and its available in store 2 exits over from me.

I ran into a potential road block, fitting some parts together tonight, that may take me back to the drawing board.

I went to install the Dolos system on the upper, with a YHM hand guard (listed compatible on their site) and 1. the anti-rotation screws are too long to be used with the dolos collar because it looks like when using the YHM barrel nut, theres a set of keys that the screws sit in that the dolos collar simply doesnt have..so Im not sure if having a YHM wrench at this point would even make a difference in installing it properly.

second issue (should be easier to get past) I need to get a gas block roll pin tool..spent about half an hour with the gas block in a vice and even with pliers holding it down, couldnt quite get it started in to pin the tube to the block..

[Moleman-]

If you've got a drill press and a scrap piece of 1/4"or thicker steel you can make a better wrench than you can buy for aluminum nuts. A welder will make it easier, but isn't required. I got a couple cheep pistol FF tubes that had a slightly smaller dia gas tube hole pattern with fewer holes which meant that none of my wrenches would lock into it. Using some 3/16" rod (used actual 3/16" hardened pins on the AR10 side) the basic shape was laid out and 4 pin locations were marked one at a time using the transfer punch and drilling/installing the pin so it would keep everything aligned. Worked great, used a dividing head to make the AR10 side but if I had to make another one I'd just use the transfer punch method. Looking at the YHM wrench the pins are longer than most wrenches which is what you want. That will spread the force out better if you're wanting to torque to the higher end of the range without breaking out the holes in the nut.

The roll pin starters are easy to make, The long one in the pic does the bolt stop and the shorter one made from a bolt is for the gas tube. You just need to drill a hole about the same size as the pin or slightly larger about 1/8" deep. It'll keep the pin from wanting to start crooked or flying off somewhere. once the roll pin is mostly installed I'll switch over to a roll pin punch to finish it up. The little nub on the roll pin punches keep them from sliding off as you're driving them in.

[DrScaryGuy]

pointe trap and tactical in saint claire shores. i haven't checked my phone yet today except to turn my alarm off

as for punches, you want an extra long one for the bolt catch. You can use a shorter one, but you need to put a few layers of masking tape on the receiver to prevent idiot marks.

[AleksanderSuave]

If you've got a drill press and a scrap piece of 1/4"or thicker steel you can make a better wrench than you can buy for aluminum nuts. A welder will make it easier, but isn't required. I got a couple cheep pistol FF tubes that had a slightly smaller dia gas tube hole pattern with fewer holes which meant that none of my wrenches would lock into it. Using some 3/16" rod (used actual 3/16" hardened pins on the AR10 side) the basic shape was laid out and 4 pin locations were marked one at a time using the transfer punch and drilling/installing the pin so it would keep everything aligned. Worked great, used a dividing head to make the AR10 side but if I had to make another one I'd just use the transfer punch method. Looking at the YHM wrench the pins are longer than most wrenches which is what you want. That will spread the force out better if you're wanting to torque to the higher end of the range without breaking out the holes in the nut.

The roll pin starters are easy to make, The long one in the pic does the bolt stop and the shorter one made from a bolt is for the gas tube. You just need to drill a hole about the same size as the pin or slightly larger about 1/8" deep. It'll keep the pin from wanting to start crooked or flying off somewhere. once the roll pin is mostly installed I'll switch over to a roll pin punch to finish it up. The little nub on the roll pin punches keep them from sliding off as you're driving them in.

since I'm using the dolos system, it actually incorporates its own collar, so no barrel nut. the only thing YHM that stays around is the jam nut, which honestly seems like I could tighten it with a set of channel locking pliers. I watched on another video a guy do it with one of the RRA stock wrenches.

I called pantheon arms and they told me I have to cut the set screws or buy another set to get it to work with the handguard..not fun but a simple fix nontheless.

The barrel fits REALLY snug in the aero upper..considering if I should even keep the dolos setup with that in mind..

[AleksanderSuave]

pointe trap and tactical in saint claire shores. i haven't checked my phone yet today except to turn my alarm off

as for punches, you want an extra long one for the bolt catch. You can use a shorter one, but you need to put a few layers of masking tape on the receiver to prevent idiot marks.

thanks again for the referral. This place is awesome.

They had all the small parts I needed (replacement roll pin for the gas block and gas tube) for like 30 cents..I got some extra springs just in case I shot one across the room, and they let me literally borrow a castle nut wrench to take home.

I'll be back there tomorrow to finish my build (didnt realize my LPK didnt have trigger pins) and return their wrench. Seriously awesome setup.