I do not have a stainless 1911, but I always heard to prevent galling you must use grease for break in, until the surfaces mate.
Any stainless 1911 guys agree ?
I do not have a stainless 1911, but I always heard to prevent galling you must use grease for break in, until the surfaces mate.
Any stainless 1911 guys agree ?
After 30 years of playing with tight-fitting reciprocating metals, as long as you have a decent lubricant (grease, oil, anti-seize, etc) you will be fine. Unless you have an extremely tight slide-to-frame fit there is little chance of galling. If you keep a good quality lube on the rails there is zero chance of galling.
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I have a few stainless 1911's and I haven't had any issues. I have never used grease on a 1911. I have been using Dry Teflon Chain lube for the last 10+ years and love it. I don't shoot rifles much but I also use it on AR's and pretty much all my guns.
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Wax, molybdenum disulphide, graphite, and some really aggressive EP additives will prevent stainless steel on stainless steel galling. These can be in either an oil or grease carrier, as long as the carrier is thick enough to prevent sloughing. This depends upon the fit clearance. Oils are adequate carriers for tight fits, while grease is more successful holding additives in loose fits.
Most of the specialty products made for stainless on stainless lubrication are intended for food machinery and can rust regular steel due to their water base and low pH. Safe to eat does not mean safe for carbon and alloy steel.
Joe Greenslade of Greenslade and Company posted a good article on stainless fastener galling - which is relevant here - at eStainlessSteel:
http://www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html
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Accuracy! A Patented slide and frame tightening system which improves accuracy and mechanical functioning. For 1911's, Available for: Colt, Caspian, STI, SV, ...
Runs smooth as silk with Mobil 1 oil, on my stainless steel 1911 and other 1911's
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I've used a grease on sliding surfaces of my auto loading pistols for 40+ yrs..
much of that was using Superlube (a teflon grease)..only a very THIN coat is needed.
a 1# tub lasted that long (but it's almost gone)
oil runs off metal surfaces, grease clings, but does also catch & hold dirt , powder residue, etc..
as my pistols are cleaned after every range trip, never had a problem.
tried a bunch of lubes, all seem to work.
I do not grease the rails, i use lube for that.
I do however grease:
1. The top of the disco where the slide rides on it
2. The hammer hooks
3. Sides of the hammer
4. Back of the trigger bow where the bottom of the disco rides
I use a very, very, VERY thin layer.
Wish I could take credit, but this was taught to me by Joe Chambers, so I've been sticking with it. Just shot my SACS Pro 700 rounds without cleaning and just put a little lube on the rails and barrel hood. Never skipped a beat and I'm using Bullseye- not the cleanest powder in the world.
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I'm currently using STP Oil Treatment on my pistols slide rails. It's fairly thick, but seems pretty slick.
Time will tell.
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Both my 1911's get a dab of grease on the rail's and Oil... During the summertime. Winter times oil only... 1 year, I tear down both to deep clean and check for unusual wear and replace any parts that are out of spec. During reinstalling parts and put a drop of oil on moving parts.
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