Anybody here use any QD mounts for their suppressors?

[Jailer]

I'd like to add QD muzzle devices to my threaded guns so I can easily change between them without have to change the FBA on my suppressor. Seems most of the suppressor makers have their own version of a QD mount for their suppressors. Plenty of them look great but there's a ton to choose from but so far all I've figured out in my research is I don't want a 3 lug mount.

So for the guys who run them and have experience with them, what's the best system to run? Can is a Liberty Mystic X.

[sfineone]

I use the Area419 system on 2 of my rifles. Really like it. Basically put an adapter on the rifle and one in the suppressor. I also use their brake that mounts on the QD system as well. Great company to deal with as well, just south of Toledo

[MCPO_SOCM_RET]

In my experience, QD adaptors or fittings add another wear item to your already not inconsequential investment for no reason. With your mystic X, you can shoot everything from 22lr up through 300BLK and even subsonic 308Win (probably more) with a few parts swaps.
Why would you want to step away from a direct thread and do that to yourself?

Edit: And your shot groupings will suffer with the use of a QD v direct thread.

I don't own any QDs (not worth the upward cost and performance downgrade) - maybe someone else can chime in that actually uses them.

[Moleman-]

I use the Silencerco Hybrid mostly with the ASR QD mount. I also have some direct thread mount for guns I don't want to put a QD brake mount on, and the piston mount. As MCPO pointed out it can be sizeable investment as I have more money tied up in ASR brakes than in the suppressor. It is nice however to be able to be able to swap between rifles without changing the back plate. I use it on everything from 17HMR to 450BM. The .46" end cap on stays on all the time as the sound increase between it and the smaller end caps isn't ear noticable (to me at least) when shooting anything smaller including 223 and 308. pics 9mm SBR and two 44 wildcats .

[Fuel Fire Desire]

I recently went with a JMAC KeyMount brake without doing enough research. I liked how the QD functioned, but failed to understand the adapter is a $200 item….ouch. I’m still going with it, since I like it’s function, but it’s a good bit of extra cost on top of a $100+ muzzle device. Is it worth +$300 to get away from direct thread?

I have another adapter on an AK with a traditional thread/ detent system. It is nowhere near stable enough for me to trust it with a can. As a brake it’s fine, but it has enough wobble to threaten a baffle strike.

[Jailer]

I'll give an example of why I want to go QD as well as what prompted me to go down this rabbit hole.

I have 2 different 300 blk guns, my 10.5 SBR and a Ruger American Ranch. Both are threaded 5/8-24. I can't switch my can back and forth between these 2 guns if I have them both at the range. The threads on my AR are shorter than the threads on the Ruger. If I shoot the AR with the can on the threads that don't get engaged by the can get carbon fouled and then I can thread the can all the way on the Ruger. I have to take my direct thread adapter out of the can and chase it with a tap from the rear and re assemble to get it to thread on the Ruger. This is what I'm trying to avoid, having to disassemble my can to put it on another gun. The cost of doing so is high and I understand that.

[Garandsrus]

Jailer,

Could you could use a washer/spacer on the longer barrel thread to make it the same length of engagement as the other one.

[buckcz]

I use the YHM system. Love it. Comp or flashhider made by YHM has QD threads on the exterior. Has a nice “ratchet” clock sound when tightening down can. Stops when on the way on and won’t back out on its own.

[Fuel Fire Desire]

I'll give an example of why I want to go QD as well as what prompted me to go down this rabbit hole.

I have 2 different 300 blk guns, my 10.5 SBR and a Ruger American Ranch. Both are threaded 5/8-24. I can't switch my can back and forth between these 2 guns if I have them both at the range. The threads on my AR are shorter than the threads on the Ruger. If I shoot the AR with the can on the threads that don't get engaged by the can get carbon fouled and then I can thread the can all the way on the Ruger. I have to take my direct thread adapter out of the can and chase it with a tap from the rear and re assemble to get it to thread on the Ruger. This is what I'm trying to avoid, having to disassemble my can to put it on another gun. The cost of doing so is high and I understand that.

I mean, $300 is a bit of money, but with a $1500 rifle, $600 optic, and a $900 suppressor, it’s not a huge price to pay if you plan on swapping easily to other $2000+ setups with an additional $100 muzzle device. In reality, it’s just a range session of ammo at this point.

[GreaseMonkeySRT]

SilencerCo ASR is my preference.