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Thread: Accuracy

  1. #1
    MGO Member MCPO_SOCM_RET's Avatar
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    Arrow Accuracy

    Here's a question to discuss. One that I've pondered myself a few times but never really committed to dig in.

    With all the different users here, with different setups, etc,...what are the most accurate (in your personal experience):
    cans (brands, baffles, etc) - anything that makes one different from the other
    setup (qd, direct, semi-auto, pump, lever, etc)
    cold barrel/can v warmed up
    best grouping with can v best without (same ammo)
    and anything else I can't think of?

    Assume median distance of 150yds, max 400yds.
    No subsonic ammo loads
    No custom chamberings or oddball calibers or wildcats - should be able to buy it off a shelf (forget the factory shortages right now)
    No bolt only setups. I've only twice put a second shot into game (that was caribou a long ways off)- it's one and done. I wont be putting a can on any of my bolt guns.
    And no SBRs. A normal rifle barrel length range (or 18"-22" for this purpose)

    Let it rip!

    ~Masterchief

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by MCPO_SOCM_RET View Post
    Here's a question to discuss. One that I've pondered myself a few times but never really committed to dig in.

    With all the different users here, with different setups, etc,...what are the most accurate (in your personal experience):
    cans (brands, baffles, etc) - anything that makes one different from the other
    setup (qd, direct, semi-auto, pump, lever, etc)
    cold barrel/can v warmed up
    best grouping with can v best without (same ammo)
    and anything else I can't think of?

    Assume median distance of 150yds, max 400yds.
    No subsonic ammo loads
    No custom chamberings or oddball calibers or wildcats - should be able to buy it off a shelf (forget the factory shortages right now)
    No bolt only setups. I've only twice put a second shot into game (that was caribou a long ways off)- it's one and done. I wont be putting a can on any of my bolt guns.
    And no SBRs. A normal rifle barrel length range (or 18"-22" for this purpose)

    Let it rip!

    ~Masterchief
    I shoot suppressed a LOT. Pretty well every day except Sunday for years now.

    On my rifles (direct thread suppressor) I am sort of stuck with the suppressor clocking so whatever accuracy off-set I get using a suppressor that usually needs to be offset with the sight or scope adjustment. Not a big deal but it can add up. Most of my rifles are within 2" at 100 yards using a suppressor with a non-suppressor sight-in. First shot can be little farther off due to the trapped air (oxygen) in the suppressor. I also can't rotate the baffles in my sealed high pressure suppressors. If I take a deep breath then hold that, then exhale a little, (that lets most of the oxygen containing air out on my mouth) I then blow that into the front of the suppressor all the way through the barrel with an open bolt. Then insert the mag and charge the chamber. That can lower the first round pop and slightly reduce 1st round error (less oxygen in the suppressor). Or better yet, just use a junk round then shoot into the ground for the first fouling shot, after that my groups stay pretty consistent.

    I used to keep a log in my specific per-gun notes so I could dial out the first round offset but that became a pain so now the only rifles that I do that for are my true hunting rifles while actually hunting with a suppressor. If I'm looking for small groups then I usually just trash the first shot.

    On my pistols, I can in a lot of cases get the POA to pretty well match POI of the sights or red dot by rotating the suppressor on the Neilson piston. Plus a couple of my pistol suppressors have removable baffle stacks so I can change the stack-up clocking of the individual baffles to sort of tune the POI (baffle stack-up clocking can make a notable difference in POI)

    I have found that many things effect the suppressor's effect on accuracy from actual weight on the front of the barrel, to how the extra weight up front effects my off-hand sighting and recoil reaction, to how the bullet exits the suppressor cap (is it perfectly centered, or slightly off center?) How tight the suppressor fits to the barrel threads (this effects the bullet exiting perfectly centered). Plus baffle vortices and even baffle design can have a big effect on accuracy.

    I have been shooting suppressed long enough now to have crossed a lot of roads dealing with suppressor effected accuracy but even so I can still have a shot group go astray due to some suppressor effect (usually the suppressor coming slightly loose on the threads) even at my normal 25 yard pistol shooting distance that can noticeably open up a 10 shot group or can keep it tight but move the entire group an inch or two.

    One thing that I have found is, if I am going to keep a direct thread suppressor on a gun for a few days, or even weeks of shooting I use Teflon plumber tape on the barrel threads before screwing on the suppressor as that pretty well keeps the suppressor tight but also helps keep it centered. The Teflon tape also makes suppressor removal easier as it prevents powder coking between the barrel threads and suppressor threads.

  3. #3
    MGO Member MCPO_SOCM_RET's Avatar
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    perfect, keep em coming!

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